Solar Kit

smkettner wrote:

64thunderbolt wrote:
Another question is should I install any fuses between the panels & controller or between the controller & batt or both???

No fuses between panels and controller. All connections to the battery should be fused to protect the wire. #10 need a 30 or 40 amp fuse.

BTW, 14.4 volts is fine. Plenty of people brag on long battery life with a PD converter that never goes above 14.4 volts.

On a pedestal in a campground with full hookups, perhaps, dry camping, not so much. You don't need solar if you're hooked up to a pedestal 24/7, then it's a non issue.

64thunderbolt wrote:
Another question is should I install any fuses between the panels & controller or between the controller & batt or both???

No fuses between panels and controller. All connections to the battery should be fused to protect the wire. #10 need a 30 or 40 amp fuse.

BTW, 14.4 volts is fine. Plenty of people brag on long battery life with a PD converter that never goes above 14.4 volts.

64thunderbolt wrote:
The controller only does 14.4

Measure it on a warm day, my $8 version claimed 14.6 but does 14.8 unless it's cold and maxes out at 15.0.

Golden_HVAC wrote:
I would recommend #10 wire if it is not included in the kit. Grey direct burial wire from Home Depot will work great, and not be damaged when exposed on your roof.

I wired mine by going down the refrigerator vent cover, and into the closet next to my refrigerator where the controller was installed.

200 watts is good start. Your RV will consume 35 amp hours per day to run just the refrigerator, CO and propane detectors. You will be OK, and make more power than those loads, but not much more. Expect about 50 - 60 amp hours daily. I had a 415 watt solar system, and could collect about 100 - 120 amp hours daily.

If you decide to expand, you can look for another 12 volt 'nominal' panel here.

SunElec.com

I made solar mounts with 6" long aluminum angle from Home Depot. It is very good to keep the solar panels about 1" off the roof, so air can carry away the heat that collects below the panels. At 130F, the panels will put out about 10% less power than if they are only 70F on a 32F day.

Good luck,

Fred.

+1 on what Fred said, above.

64thunderbolt wrote:

NinerBikes wrote:

64thunderbolt wrote:
The kit came with #10 wire 20' with all the connectors which should be ample. My biggest concern is where to mount the controller. Someone said NOT to mount in the batt area due to degassing. WHY? I guess I could put it in the basement compartment and wire through the wall to the batt.

Do a Google search on Sulfuric acid and corrosive. You still need 14.8V to top charge the battery... The charge controller in the kit most likely will not get the job done. It's the cheapest they could find to add to the kit to maximize their profit, due to the uninformed consumer not knowing any better.

I will be using the gen morning & evening for coffee & cooking. My powermax boondocker 55a will give them a shot of 14.8. Like I said I am supplementing. The controller only does 14.4

I can lead a horse to water, I can't make it drink. Pay attention, or get new batteries more frequently than you need to.

You don't use the generator to top charge, it's a huge waste of fuel and running time on the generator... you use solar to do that. Get a better charge controller, or live with mediocrity in your solar charging system.

BFL13 wrote:

64thunderbolt wrote:
Will there be any confusion between solar & gen while running the gen? Do I need a transfer switch?

The solar controller and the converter will be in parallel on the battery bank. They do not interfere with each other and will add their amps at times.

Only need a fuse at the battery pos for the solar. No need between panel and controller, but it is useful to have a disconnect switch there, and some use a fuse as their switch.

Thanks, seems I read that somewhere but wasn't sure.

Hi,

My solar system "plays well" with the alternator, and the OEM PD 40 amp wizard equipped converter. It doesn't do the same with the Magnum inverter/charger, but I can "work around" by toggling an equalization on the controller.

64thunderbolt wrote:
Will there be any confusion between solar & gen while running the gen? Do I need a transfer switch?

64thunderbolt wrote:
Will there be any confusion between solar & gen while running the gen? Do I need a transfer switch?

The solar controller and the converter will be in parallel on the battery bank. They do not interfere with each other and will add their amps at times.

Only need a fuse at the battery pos for the solar. No need between panel and controller, but it is useful to have a disconnect switch there, and some use a fuse as their switch.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Another reason for not mounting the controller in the battery bank area is risk of sparking. Hydrogen gas mixed with air is explosive.

Thanks

NinerBikes wrote:

64thunderbolt wrote:
The kit came with #10 wire 20' with all the connectors which should be ample. My biggest concern is where to mount the controller. Someone said NOT to mount in the batt area due to degassing. WHY? I guess I could put it in the basement compartment and wire through the wall to the batt.

Do a Google search on Sulfuric acid and corrosive. You still need 14.8V to top charge the battery... The charge controller in the kit most likely will not get the job done. It's the cheapest they could find to add to the kit to maximize their profit, due to the uninformed consumer not knowing any better.

I will be using the gen morning & evening for coffee & cooking. My powermax boondocker 55a will give them a shot of 14.8. Like I said I am supplementing. The controller only does 14.4