BFL13 wrote:
With PWM you get the Isc of the panels. So your two together can do 12.26 amps aimed at a high sun. You should allow some margin for panels when they are cold doing more than their rated amps, rated at 25C/77F
Flat panels don't get as much light as aimed panels, so do less than rated amps. A 15 amp controller should give you enough margin, but a 20 would be better for more margin.
From panels to controller should be #8 as stated above. However since you hardly ever do any off-grid, it is not worth the extra money if that is a consideration over #10.
In fact for that much off-grid you just need an extra battery for that trip, and no solar at all.
My panels are mounted flat and are not able to be tilted. I will just have to live with the power loss because of it.
If Morningstar made a 20-amp ProStar controller, that would probably be perfect for my setup due to the extra capacity. I've read lots of positive comments about Morningstar controllers so that is why I plan to use one. I know there are lots of 20-amp units for sale but don't know enough about them to take a chance. Something about "magic blue smoke" that others have experienced from time to time that just does not excite me.
Even though I rarely go off-grid there have been times when solar would have eased my mind about power. Thus my adding it now.
Another plus of course will be no longer having an extension cord between the trailer and the house to keep the batteries charged.:)
Thanks for your information. I am trying to learn something from all the comments that have been posted in the various threads about solar power. It is kind of tough sometimes, due to cranial density.:)