Solar voltage help...

NinerBikes wrote:
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10 amps is plenty with that 160 watt set of panels. It starts out at 22V and gets down to 18V in the specs, and is capable of putting out 8.88 amps,max, if the battery will even allow that kind of charge take......
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Niner the Isc on that is 9.46a which he should get with the panels pointed at a high sun. You are using the Imp figure which is meaningless with PWM.

10 amps on two 6s is 5 amps per battery, which is the acceptance rate for about 90% SOC at 14.5v. So there should be no trouble finding time from 50-90 SOC for the battery bank to accept the 9.46a

Also after 90% and amps taper, you can run things that take from the solar--any amps over what the battery is taking up to what the panel can do at the time.

Eg, good time to recharge/use the laptop late afternoon while the panel can still do 9a when pointed, batts taking 3 amps, inverter with laptop load taking 6 amps

http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Panels-&-Systems-12-Volt-Solar-Panels/c1_269/p2754/W-Solar-160-Watt-Foldable-12-Volt-Solar-Panel/product_info.html

OregonTRX4 wrote:
I just connected my solar kit (160w cmp12 controller)and the voltage while connected to the rv batteries reads 16.55v. Is this normal or too high? Sorry but im new to this.

Please take a picture of the wiring you are using at the back end of the panel, where the solar controller is located, and post it up here.

Here you go:

10 amp charge controller.

or this.

10 amp charge controller.

Take your pick.

CMP charge controllers.

Here's one, in 15 amps, if you want to play it safe. 15 amp charge controller.

10 amps is plenty with that 160 watt set of panels. It starts out at 22V and gets down to 18V in the specs, and is capable of putting out 8.88 amps,max, if the battery will even allow that kind of charge take.

While I own the 120W version, I'v had zero problems with my charge controller. Read the directions. Hook your battery up first, then plug in to the back side of the panel with your charge controller. Measure the voltage at the battery terminals. With the wire provided, it's hard to get much over 14V at full complete charge to your battery.

14.4 volts in bulk and absorption and 13.2 volts in float would not properly charge and maintain my batteries. Hence, the inexpensive controllers won't always give one what is needed. Be nice to your batteries!

red31 wrote:
The manual for the newest generation of the sunsaver 10 shows the charge profile like this.


14.4v abs, 14.9 equ, 13.7 float, equalize every 28 days for 3 hrs (jumper set to flooded).

The older manual suggests 12.5A max Isc so it would work with 160 watts.

Same exact drawing in the manual for the $40 LandStar PWM controller line. (and for the other EP Solar lines AFAIK.) Funny that they have the same guy doing their manuals as MorningStar. Wonder who makes the MorningStar controllers--same factory as LandStar? I don't know.

You do get Isc so if that is 12a, (you need a controller with 20% margin over panel rated Isc) your controller needs to be 15a

Actually, 160w should have Isc of 160/130 x 8.2 = 10a so add 2 and you need a 12a controller but the next size up is 15.

IGNORE all these people saying you should have a 10a controller.

RJ is quite right that you can buy a perfectly good 15a controller on ebay for under $20. Just don't believe the "MPPT" on any of those if they claim that feature--they work as PWMs. (real MPPTs even on ebay are more like $100 on up)

My $11 delivered (now $12) 10A PWM controller has the same specs but does slightly higher abs.

Tom_M wrote:
If you know that your batteries are good, just call Solar Blvd and tell them your problem. They most likely will send you a replacement.

Best answer yet, and the replacement will probably be a CMP 12/24 15 amp.

There are hundreds of very inexpensive controllers out there that will do everything most hi $ ones will do.

An expensive controller is only expensive on the retail end. They are not expensive to build. Many are nothing but a big rippoff.
The big names out there don't hold a monopoly anymore.(:

Except for the equalize, that's exactly what my CMP does, only for 12 bucks

The manual for the newest generation of the sunsaver 10 shows the charge profile like this.


14.4v abs, 14.9 equ, 13.7 float, equalize every 28 days for 3 hrs (jumper set to flooded).

The older manual suggests 12.5A max Isc so it would work with 160 watts.

If you know that your batteries are good, just call Solar Blvd and tell them your problem. They most likely will send you a replacement.