Forum Discussion
BFL13
May 28, 2014Explorer II
No fuse needed between the panels and the controller. You have the existing battery fuse so don't need that one on the controller output either.
Yes to the on/off switch for the array side of the controller. That way you can disconnect array before disconnecting/connecting controller to battery when you ever take the batteries out/replace.
Your converter is controlled by your battery disconnect switch so you don't need another switch. Unless you have an inverter with the shore power cord into it for your 120v stuff, then you need a way to turn off the converter. (some can just be unplugged, some you can use the AC circuit breaker--but if that is shared with the receptacle circuit, then you need a converter switch before it gets to that shared breaker)
Of course instead of spending over $200 for that 60a controller, I would get two $34 Solar30s and use one with each pair of panels. No combiner box, just two pairs of panels on roof then wires down to the controller for each pair. Same total amps at the battery as seen on the Trimetric.
Yes to the on/off switch for the array side of the controller. That way you can disconnect array before disconnecting/connecting controller to battery when you ever take the batteries out/replace.
Your converter is controlled by your battery disconnect switch so you don't need another switch. Unless you have an inverter with the shore power cord into it for your 120v stuff, then you need a way to turn off the converter. (some can just be unplugged, some you can use the AC circuit breaker--but if that is shared with the receptacle circuit, then you need a converter switch before it gets to that shared breaker)
Of course instead of spending over $200 for that 60a controller, I would get two $34 Solar30s and use one with each pair of panels. No combiner box, just two pairs of panels on roof then wires down to the controller for each pair. Same total amps at the battery as seen on the Trimetric.
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