Solar Wiring Diagram - Any Comments/Suggestions?

No fuse for panels. Get 12V breaker for this, and another 12V breaker for controller. Or, at least, skip the panel fuse and install the switch only.

Also, I am not 100% positive, but WFCO converter seems to do no harm when working together with panels. Mostly converter will be running float when controller is off. Therefore, - no Blue Sea switch for controller/converter.

Edit:
I used the term "12V" automatically. What I really meant was "DC breaker". They are usually up to 150VDC, with varying amperages.

No fuse needed between the panels and the controller. You have the existing battery fuse so don't need that one on the controller output either.

Yes to the on/off switch for the array side of the controller. That way you can disconnect array before disconnecting/connecting controller to battery when you ever take the batteries out/replace.

Your converter is controlled by your battery disconnect switch so you don't need another switch. Unless you have an inverter with the shore power cord into it for your 120v stuff, then you need a way to turn off the converter. (some can just be unplugged, some you can use the AC circuit breaker--but if that is shared with the receptacle circuit, then you need a converter switch before it gets to that shared breaker)

Of course instead of spending over $200 for that 60a controller, I would get two $34 Solar30s and use one with each pair of panels. No combiner box, just two pairs of panels on roof then wires down to the controller for each pair. Same total amps at the battery as seen on the Trimetric.

You should have 3 fuses in the combiner box. The Trimetric requires 4 wires and 5 if you have the 2025 and add the chassis battery. The batteries should be wired in a balanced configuration.

Best looking schematic I've ever seen!

The 60a fuse in the #4 wire is not needed. You could short the wires and you would be at 35a max and no harm would come of it.

I would also skip the additional 60a fuse in the 2/0 and just stay with the existing. I believe the existing fuse needs to be closer to 100a to cover the converter and controller. Although I think I would prefer separate and direct connection for the solar and converter to the battery.

Does that WFCO actually charge properly at 14.4 volts when expected?

Simple on/off switch is available for both locations.