[SOLVED] 3 way fridge won't run on 12v
Edit: Solved
The switch, which I had previously determined was the problem and replaced, was in fact the problem. Replacing the switch with a new one had fixed the original problem. However, the issue I had after installing the new switch was a re-assembly problem. When you spin the control section back in to mesh with the switch stem, t-stat stem, the pilot stem and and piezo stem, the switch stem sprung section had been pushed back and stuck there. It didn't engage the switch stem. When I turned the dial to 12v (after testing 120v successfully), the switch hadn't actually been rotated to pass 12v - it was still in 120v mode. The fridge was actually set to run on 120v but wasn't plugged in to 120v; and as I believed it was set to run on 12v at that time, it *appeared* to still be broken. So the 12v was fixed after the switch replacement, but the dial not engaging the switch left the fridge unable to change heat sources.
Original message:
Have an old dometic RM361. Here's what I've ruled out.
- The cooling unit is in tip top shape and runs great on 120v and propane.
- The 12v heater works fine when removed and connected to a 12v battery
- The switch is brand new today (thought it was the problem... it wasn't)
- There's no 12v relay in this model, and no circuit board
- The thermostat is shared by 120v and 12v so I know it works as well.
- There is 12v at the terminal block.
I've tested literally everything in the 12v path and each component functions find on it's own; yet when all is assembled, the 12v heater does not come on. There's no power going to it. I'm at the end of my wits now.. if anyone has a suggestion other than ghosts, I would LOVE to hear it.
The switch, which I had previously determined was the problem and replaced, was in fact the problem. Replacing the switch with a new one had fixed the original problem. However, the issue I had after installing the new switch was a re-assembly problem. When you spin the control section back in to mesh with the switch stem, t-stat stem, the pilot stem and and piezo stem, the switch stem sprung section had been pushed back and stuck there. It didn't engage the switch stem. When I turned the dial to 12v (after testing 120v successfully), the switch hadn't actually been rotated to pass 12v - it was still in 120v mode. The fridge was actually set to run on 120v but wasn't plugged in to 120v; and as I believed it was set to run on 12v at that time, it *appeared* to still be broken. So the 12v was fixed after the switch replacement, but the dial not engaging the switch left the fridge unable to change heat sources.
Original message:
Have an old dometic RM361. Here's what I've ruled out.
- The cooling unit is in tip top shape and runs great on 120v and propane.
- The 12v heater works fine when removed and connected to a 12v battery
- The switch is brand new today (thought it was the problem... it wasn't)
- There's no 12v relay in this model, and no circuit board
- The thermostat is shared by 120v and 12v so I know it works as well.
- There is 12v at the terminal block.
I've tested literally everything in the 12v path and each component functions find on it's own; yet when all is assembled, the 12v heater does not come on. There's no power going to it. I'm at the end of my wits now.. if anyone has a suggestion other than ghosts, I would LOVE to hear it.
