Spending too much $$ on batteries.

Of course all or some of the previous posts may have a bearing on your battery life...Or it could simply be that you are a "heavy" battery user.
All lead acid batteries have a finite amount of cycles that they can provide. When that is used up, the battery needs replacing.

A "light" user or one that has solar etc. will be one whose batteries last a long time. A "heavy" user may be one that relies on the battery without a means to recharge it frequently. It gets drawn down a lot and then recharged a lot.
Other factors such as high temps also can be a factor.

The point is that just because someone else gets more time out of a battery, doesn't mean that you can or should get the same.

It is highly unlikely that any two people here on their forum subject their batteries to the same conditions. So others testimonials on battery life, though interesting, are pretty much useless.

bcbigfoot wrote:
When it is time for a new agm battery, you could consider the group 31 agm Duracell witch is a rebranded Penn/Deka Intimidator (if you have space) at Sams club, they run around $169. Perhaps the best bag for buck agm in the market place at the moment. http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232.ip

X2 on the price. When my AGMs die, that is my replacement choice. Only 1yr warranty though.

The OP needs to understand what is killing the Lifelines as they are excellent quality and it is not the battery at fault.

The OP might want to switch to the Sears P-4 due to the no-questions-asked 4yr 100% warranty while he learns how to maintain batteries.

HTH;
John

Most probably wouldn't do this, but if it were mine, I would:

1. Find a place to mount the battery outside the cabin and run cables there
2. Buy low-cost flooded wet cell(s)
3. Learn how to properly maintain a wet cell battery. This is a good place to start.

You can kill twice as many (or more) flooded batteries as AGMs for the same price. ;)

If sticking with AGM, read and remember this.

I use a smart-mode converter/charger PD9260C for my three GP24 standard delivery Interstate batteries (255AHs capaciity). I usually leave them connected 24/7 plugged into the garage 120VAC 15/20AMP receptacle when here at the house. I also check my fluids and feel the sides of the batteries about once a month out of habit...

My battery setup is monitored inside the trailer by a three meter panel reading DV VOLTS for Bank1 abd Bank2 and a 75AMP current meter for the batttery DC OUT feed to the trailer. Will glance at that everytime I am in the area...

I also have a good complete BATTERY DISCONNECT switch setup that opens any and all of the batteries from the trailer if I want to do that.

The smart-mode converter/charger really takes care of the batteries for me but out of habit I still check them including the battery fluid levels since my batteries had caps on them.

These batteries were installed in 2008 and for a good three years i really cycled them from 50% to 70% charge state alot when camping off the power grid.

I try to NEVER NEVER let them get below 50% charge state.

Just something you need to do to keep a watchful eye on your batteries.

Just my way...
Roy Ken

Buy the Sears. It is a better battery. If the group 31 Diehard Platinum battery fits, use it.

Secondly keep pulling that fuse in the off season. You did it right.

Thirdly, park the unit for the season will a full battery.

You should purchase a tiny maintenance charger that says in the instructions that it is particularly suited for "AGM" batteries. If it does not say it, do not buy it. The tiny maintenance charger may have a selector switch on it for AGM. Use that selection.

Make sure NO wires bypass the disconnected power fuse to the positive battery connection.

It'll be the year 202something before we hear of the next battery woe story from you...

When it is time for a new agm battery, you could consider the group 31 agm Duracell witch is a rebranded Penn/Deka Intimidator (if you have space) at Sams club, they run around $169. Perhaps the best bag for buck agm in the market place at the moment. http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232.ip

Peg Leg wrote:
If it's plugged in all the time it could be a overcharging problem cause by the converter. I just had to replace my converter but it wasn't charging at all.

Can happen with a malfunctioning converter/charger. Many RVs have a converter only, and not a charger. They will overcharge and destroy a battery. I have been there and done that. That is how my TC was equipped when new. If you do not know the difference, they look the same.

Peg Leg wrote:
You may need to add a battery disconnect switch when not using the rig.

I absolutely agree. The only exception is if you are connected to shore power with a three stage converter/charger, or solar.

realter wrote:
I pull the fuse, should have spent $ to get a battery disconnect, a whold lot easier than getting down of the floor behind some little door.

Best Converter has a simple disconnect. They will tell you how and where to install it.

realter wrote:
How would I know if the converter needs replacing? Does somebody test it?

Best Converter can provide you with an answer. First, look at your converter (or converter/charger) and see what you have. Some RVs only have converters, not charger/converters. Tell Randy what you have, and he will tell you what it does.

Reddog1 wrote:
... It may be worth your time to call Best Converter. Randy is very easy to talk to, with years of experience. Explain what you have, and he will give you a direction.

Wayne

Lifeline GPL27T does have a 4 year warranty (pro rated) if that helps. Though should have replaced it last Oct. I wouldnt buy another outright though utill or unless you can determine why your getting such short life. Or swap it to get some of your money out of it-but dont install it, have your charge system checked-then look at how batt is used.
I would assume if it came with your camper you have adequate charger.
Dont know if you have a way to monitor. Deeply discharging as mentioned will shorten service, A year is absurd. How far down to you run it while camping? -setting partially charged - connected while stored with parasitic drains. Lot of varibles..
Edit hmm sounds like you only use while on shore. If charged and you pull 'fuse' assume no loads-puzzling unless something is still drawing

realter wrote:
The battery is not a wet cell, it is inside the camper, not vented to the outside. I understand it was invented for spacecraft and can be mounted upside down if necessary Sears is out of a similar battery, and their price is $229 and 289, the kid didn't know the diff. Interstate Battery store quoted $254, with a 3 week delivery.

My battery is also mounted inside my TC without an external vent. I would not mount a flooded wet cell the same way/place. I have had flooded wet cell batteries in times past, and it is highly unlikely I would ever go back to them. I do not have anything special in my charging system, just for the AGM battery.

realter wrote:
The first year i didn't know to disconnect the fuse, so thats probably why it always ran down, and the second battery sat for a month when I didn't use the camper. I just assumed you could charge it back up and everything would be hunky dory. Guess not.

You should have no problem letting an AGM battery sit for several months and even need a charge. The exception is if it is not disconnected from your TC. If connected, the TC will probably drain the battery below the maximum discharge. You can do that a few times, then the battery is dead. This applies to all batteries.

What kind of charger do you have? If you have a three stage charger, my suggestion is to get another AGM battery and install a battery disconnect.

I think you have more than one problem. First is your charger, maybe not knowing/understanding the state of charge of your battery, the typical parasitic battery load (alarms, etc.) from your TC, and discharging the battery to the point of it being dead.

It may be worth your time to call Best Converter. Randy is very easy to talk to, with years of experience. Explain what you have, and he will give you a direction.

Wayne

Peg Leg wrote:
If it's plugged in all the time it could be a overcharging problem cause by the converter. I just had to replace my converter but it wasn't charging at all.



You may need to add a battery disconnect switch when not using the rig.

I pull the fuse, should have spent $ to get a battery disconnect, a whold lot easier than getting down of the floor behind some little door.

How would I know if the converter needs replacing? Does somebody test it?

Thanks for all the quick replys and suggestions.