Split 30amp into two 15amp circuits

Chris Bryant wrote:
To further confuse matters, the NEC says:

Two to Five 15- or 20- Ampere Circuits
A maximum of five 15- or 20- ampere circuits to supply light, recpetical outlets, and fixed appliances shall be permitted.Such recreational vehicles shall be equipped with a distribution panelboard rated at 120 volts maximum with a 30- ampere rated main power supply assembly...

I should note this is an old copy- 2002, and it could have changed. I'm just too cheap to buy a new copy :).

120 volt breaker panels are hard to find- about everything in normal builders supplies are 120/240.

Who cares what NEC says ? You are not bound by any codes in doing this job.

I have a 120 volt breaker panel/box in the van now. I have another one new in the box sitting in the garage so, I'm good on that. I took a couple of pictures of the van before I started washing and touching up the paint on it. Here's what I'm starting with. It's been sitting in our driveway for far too long. Last year we drove it 300 miles, total.. I just took it out for a long drive today. The AC needs to be charged, which I can do myself, no problem. Other than that it's in great mechanical shape. Now I just need to decide interior configuration. I think it will be a fun project. I have built a camper van before and we had some awesome times in that old van. When I configured the van for grooming I was under the gun to get it done and I did it in three months working on weekends. It was fun but, the whole time I was thinking that it would make a good camper.

To further confuse matters, the NEC says:

Two to Five 15- or 20- Ampere Circuits
A maximum of five 15- or 20- ampere circuits to supply light, recpetical outlets, and fixed appliances shall be permitted.Such recreational vehicles shall be equipped with a distribution panelboard rated at 120 volts maximum with a 30- ampere rated main power supply assembly...

I should note this is an old copy- 2002, and it could have changed. I'm just too cheap to buy a new copy :).


120 volt breaker panels are hard to find- about everything in normal builders supplies are 120/240.

LittleBill wrote:

DrewE wrote:

The NEC requires a main disconnect (i.e. a main breaker, or a switch and fuses) when more than two branch circuits are used. If only two branch circuits are used, it's apparently not actually required, but still IMHO a very good idea for a couple of reasons:

explain this item to me then, since i own a similar one
clicky

That style panel can be used as either a main panel or sub-panel. Equipped with a straight in double pole breaker (power source connects directly to the breaker) and a neutral/ground bond, it's a main panel with lugs that can be used to feed a sub-panel. With the neutral/ground bond lifted and the source from a main panel connected to the bus lugs, it's a sub-panel. That style panel is very commonly used in residential construction.

Man.. You guys are awesome. I used a residential breaker box in the grooming van and ran two separate 15 amp circuits to the generator. The generator had it's own breakers but, to be safe I ran the box in the van. The breakers cut the circuit a couple of times and worked fast and perfect. Which paid off when I had run a screw through a wire and created a short. On this van I will fun the 30amp main and then split off to at least two 15amp circuits.

Again, thanks a lot for all the information.

LittleBill wrote:

DrewE wrote:

LittleBill wrote:
there is literally no need for a main breaker, don't even know why people are suggesting it.

wherever he plugs in will protect the wire from the rv to the receptacle, the smaller breaker will protect the wire inside the rv.

The NEC requires a main disconnect (i.e. a main breaker, or a switch and fuses) when more than two branch circuits are used. If only two branch circuits are used, it's apparently not actually required, but still IMHO a very good idea for a couple of reasons:

1. It gives a good way to shut off the 120V power to the RV for performing maintenance or in the case of an emergency. This is likely the main reason the NEC requires it.

2. If you plug into e.g. a 50A RV receptacle and have no main breaker, a short in the electric panel or excess current use by the combined branch circuits could overload the shore power cord.

I'd rather be safe than sorry, particularly since a 30A breaker is not all that expensive.

explain this item to me then, since i own a similar one
clicky

Simple. That is a residential subpanel, and the main disconnect for the building is elsewhere, typically the main breaker for the main panel. The requirements for subpanels in the same building and for the panels in RVs, while similar in many regards, are not precisely identical. The main disconnect requirements for an RV are more closely aligned with that for outbuildings, while the grounding and bonding requirements more like those for subpanels in the same building. That said, RVs do have their own distinct section of the code.

LittleBill wrote:

DrewE wrote:

LittleBill wrote:
there is literally no need for a main breaker, don't even know why people are suggesting it.

wherever he plugs in will protect the wire from the rv to the receptacle, the smaller breaker will protect the wire inside the rv.

The NEC requires a main disconnect (i.e. a main breaker, or a switch and fuses) when more than two branch circuits are used. If only two branch circuits are used, it's apparently not actually required, but still IMHO a very good idea for a couple of reasons:

1. It gives a good way to shut off the 120V power to the RV for performing maintenance or in the case of an emergency. This is likely the main reason the NEC requires it.

2. If you plug into e.g. a 50A RV receptacle and have no main breaker, a short in the electric panel or excess current use by the combined branch circuits could overload the shore power cord.

I'd rather be safe than sorry, particularly since a 30A breaker is not all that expensive.

explain this item to me then, since i own a similar one
clicky

The construction of that Eaton load center is typical to most residential load centers. It is usually powered through a 240V two pole main breaker.

Right now, I'm wondering why some folks need to reinvent the wheel.

DrewE wrote:

LittleBill wrote:
there is literally no need for a main breaker, don't even know why people are suggesting it.

wherever he plugs in will protect the wire from the rv to the receptacle, the smaller breaker will protect the wire inside the rv.

The NEC requires a main disconnect (i.e. a main breaker, or a switch and fuses) when more than two branch circuits are used. If only two branch circuits are used, it's apparently not actually required, but still IMHO a very good idea for a couple of reasons:

1. It gives a good way to shut off the 120V power to the RV for performing maintenance or in the case of an emergency. This is likely the main reason the NEC requires it.

2. If you plug into e.g. a 50A RV receptacle and have no main breaker, a short in the electric panel or excess current use by the combined branch circuits could overload the shore power cord.

I'd rather be safe than sorry, particularly since a 30A breaker is not all that expensive.

explain this item to me then, since i own a similar one
clicky

Your conversion is among the easiest to do so here goes

You will need
One 30 amp shore cord
One 30 amp RV type 30 amp box
One 30 amp Circuit breaker (MAIN)
Two 20 amp breakers (Optional get a 15 amp)
Two 15/20 amp Duplex outlets with boxes
12 gauge wire

(Note you cand do it with single 15/20 amnp outlets as well if you like but Duplex are easier to find,, 15/20 anp outlets have a "T" shaped neutral

30 amnp cord to breaker box main breaker (30 amp)

20 amp breakers on each to a duplex outlet
Remaing breaker(s) are not connected at this time (may leave blank and get those later if needed

plug on of your existing cords into each of the two outlets for Shore power

plug same cords into Genrator for Generator power

This is about as easy as it gets

ONE caution.> Coiling of power cords is a bad idea.. Can cause overheat (That is when in use) though a single turn (coil) is usually OK.

DrewE wrote:

LittleBill wrote:
there is literally no need for a main breaker, don't even know why people are suggesting it.

wherever he plugs in will protect the wire from the rv to the receptacle, the smaller breaker will protect the wire inside the rv.

The NEC requires a main disconnect (i.e. a main breaker, or a switch and fuses) when more than two branch circuits are used. If only two branch circuits are used, it's apparently not actually required, but still IMHO a very good idea for a couple of reasons:

1. It gives a good way to shut off the 120V power to the RV for performing maintenance or in the case of an emergency. This is likely the main reason the NEC requires it.

2. If you plug into e.g. a 50A RV receptacle and have no main breaker, a short in the electric panel or excess current use by the combined branch circuits could overload the shore power cord.

I'd rather be safe than sorry, particularly since a 30A breaker is not all that expensive.

In my dual 30A service I now have on my trailer my added load center at the trailer has only two 15A CBs (no 30A main) and you concern about the combined branch ckts overloading the shore power cord is not valid since they cannot overload the shore power cord if you are connected to a 50A pedestal power with a dogbone adapter. This is no different than using a 50A to 30A dogbone to feed a 30A trailer. Besides code requirements you have a 30A main on a typical trailer setup because the individual breakers add up to more than what the shore power cord and/or main service is capable of supplying.

Larry

Larry