Strange error code Norcold 1201 LRIM : problem resolved

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
will I get better cooling with the top and or lower vent covers removed?

wonder if the inverters internal transfer switch is a little slow and is trying to charge the batteries from it's self.

The problem has not re-occurred since I make sure the charger is OFF if the inverter is in invert mode.

Only slightly. Getting fans working would be much better.

I owned a PS 2.0 for 10 years and had many problems with the remote itself. In that time I'd gone through 3 of them. at a couple hundred bux each. The charger failed during warranty, was replaced, and functioned fine for another 8 years.

I didn't experience your problems, but I guess a call or email to X service might be of help.

Fridge no co problem resolved. The no co has not reappeared, even though we didn't do anything (other than turn off then on.)

Gas working now since I cleaned out yet another large fluffy piece of soot from the end of the burner.

Xantrex still working fine BUT I still do not leave "Invert" and "Charger" enabled at the same time.

Thanks all for the help.

We had the NO CO code. Next day found the ammonia leak about 2 inches above the burner. Replace unit with a residential frig. Samsung RF197.

gatorcq wrote:
Post number 3 is correct plus the link needed to reset. Easy solution. Post number 4, is partly correct. You can get the NO CO without any problems related to it. Just reset it and continue on. If you really do have a problem it will come later.

In my case it happen, reset twice, after that no problems for 4 years, then we decided to go with a residential

MY post is dead on. The first NO CO it locks out the refer. You just turn the refer OFF for 1 minute and turn it back ON. IF the NO CO problem is NOT corrected, it will throw the 2nd NO CO and will LOCK OUT the controls and you have to do the Hard reset. The NO CO is a cooling unit protection shut down. What it means is simple---The refer did/can not do a complete normal cool down. That meaans there is something wrong with the refer system---inadequate ventilation (fans) Low LP pressure, one of the 2 heat elements is out, ANYTHING that causes a NOT normal refer cool down. Running off level can possibly cause that. But, as I stated, you turn it OFF and if you corrected the level problem will then do a normal cool down. AFTER the first NO CO, if the refer does a normal complete cool down, the first NO CO is erased from the system. Doug

Thanks for the many replies.

Fridge: Yup, it was the no co code. But only showed up once, I pushed mode switch then it was followed by no ac. Turned fridge on and off it worked fine. Next time was no ac when the inverter cut power to the rig due to hi voltage. This happens usually a couple of times a night as AC exceeds 130V.

I often hear a slow rumble from the fans, it was suggested that it might be a harmonic from the fans running at different speeds. My guess too.

It's running fine on AC. Outside temps right now, at 11:45 AM is 30.1 C We're in Zihuatanejo Mexico so fridge parts are very unavailable. I might be able to get the fan motors replaced or rewound and new bearings. MAYBE.

The fridge is on a slide. Gets sun in another hour or so for only two or three hours before being shaded again.

Question: will I get better cooling with the top and or lower vent covers removed?

I still haven't tackled the gas won't light (there is gas, it just won't light)likely needs a good clean. But it is very awkward to get at the igniter.

Xantrex Prosine 2.0 silly things: Twice got a AC Back Feed which I though could only happen with a wiring error. Both times it was reset by killing the post breaker AND switching the inverter off at the switch. A few minutes later turn back on and it was fine until next time.

History: I usually leave the battery charger off as I now have 420 watts of solar, though the panels start to loose the sun by early after noon. I turn the invert's battery charger on in the morning whenever the AM pre solar charging shows 12.3V--every three or four days or so.

ALSO I have left the inverter in invert mode (standby) once the heat pump is done for the day. I am beginning to wonder if the inverters internal transfer switch is a little slow and is trying to charge the batteries from it's self.

The problem has not re-occurred since I make sure the charger is OFF if the inverter is in invert mode.

The question now is leaving the inverter on to make sure the fridge keeps running without the battery recharging when the voltage falls enough, OR turn the invert function off which means turn the fridge off or the no ac will beep beep several times during the night when the voltage rises and Mr. Xantrex says I can't have it.

But the fridge takes 40 amps from the batteries when inverting. We're also running two MaxxAir fans at 2/3 speed all night. We have 4 242 AH GCs.

Did I mention that last week I spilled a 12 oz glass of water on the laptop? The keyboard says spill resistant but. . . now using a USB keyboard---designed for Mexico! :S

As DW says, more Blog Fodder.

Post number 3 is correct plus the link needed to reset. Easy solution. Post number 4, is partly correct. You can get the NO CO without any problems related to it. Just reset it and continue on. If you really do have a problem it will come later.

In my case it happen, reset twice, after that no problems for 4 years, then we decided to go with a residential

Try unplugging both AC and DC in outside compartment. Let sit for awhile and then plug back in. We had that on our 1200 and the unplugging all power reset things. It did it again a couple months later. We replaced the circuit board and all has been fine for over a year now. Worth a try.

Hi,

Can't help with the fridge--but remove the DC power source from the inverter, isolated it from the 120 volt power, too. Then turn it on to drain the capacitors. Let it sit for ten minutes, and then reconnect the DC power (with the inverter off, of course).

The code is NO CO. If you have THAT code, the refer is locked out and will not work on any power source. A NO CO code shuts down all refer and control board operation. Your unit is 12 years old. IF no Ammonia leakage, the most common cause of a NO CO on older units is the rear cooling fans are not working. A Unit that old the odds are the fans are worn out and will not work. The Fan Tstat is probably bad also. Replace BOTH fans and the Fan tstat. The bad news is---you must pull the refer to even check fan operation if you do not hear those fans running. Unless the refer is in a slide room, then you can check the tstat and power thru the tstat from the outside upper vent door. You will have to do a HARD NO CO reset. But THAT will be useless to do until you find and fix the cause of the NO CO problem. What is the outside temp where you are located? Doug

Procedure to reset after a 'No Co' error (no cooling detected)......LINK

Here is a service manual for your fridge........LINK