Forum Discussion
theoldwizard1
Nov 29, 2016Explorer II
Start with the simple things.
Using a DMM, check the voltage at the battery posts, both running and with the key in the OfF position. Running, it should be between 13.5V and 14.5V. Key OFF (assuming the battery is fully charged), it should be above 12.0V. It should STAY at that value even after an hour or 2 of resting.
Most DMM have the capability of check DC amps. The trick with checking amps is that you have to start with the HIGHEST SCALE and work your way down. Again, MOST DMM have a special plug for their 10A scale. Start by plugging you test lead into that hole. Remove the positive battery cable from the battery and connect the DMM between the positive battery cable and the positive battery post. If you are get more than about 0.010A you have a "parasitic" draw. It may go higher for a few seconds and then back down again (computer wakes up to check something and then goes back to sleep).
It is most likely associated with something in the coach not the chassis itself.
Using a DMM, check the voltage at the battery posts, both running and with the key in the OfF position. Running, it should be between 13.5V and 14.5V. Key OFF (assuming the battery is fully charged), it should be above 12.0V. It should STAY at that value even after an hour or 2 of resting.
Most DMM have the capability of check DC amps. The trick with checking amps is that you have to start with the HIGHEST SCALE and work your way down. Again, MOST DMM have a special plug for their 10A scale. Start by plugging you test lead into that hole. Remove the positive battery cable from the battery and connect the DMM between the positive battery cable and the positive battery post. If you are get more than about 0.010A you have a "parasitic" draw. It may go higher for a few seconds and then back down again (computer wakes up to check something and then goes back to sleep).
It is most likely associated with something in the coach not the chassis itself.
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