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8ntw8tn's avatar
8ntw8tn
Explorer
Oct 04, 2017

Suburban water heater issue

After a bit of trouble shooting (testing for 120 vac and continuity of the electric element) I finally found why I'm not getting any hot water in the electric mode; one of the electric lead to one of the thermostats has shorted and burned in two at the point of connection. It's the thermostat on the left and the lead on the lower part of that thermostat. The clear insulation surrounding the terminal was charred and the insulation where the electric lead makes contact with the terminal is burned and the wire has burned in two. I'm just not familiar enough with the operation of the water heater to know what could have caused the short. The location of the short makes me think it's a faulty thermostat but I'd like some confirmation, or alternatives before I just go swapping parts. Help?
  • 8ntw8tn's avatar
    8ntw8tn
    Explorer
    Oct 05, 2017
    Just the information I was looking for. Thanks all!! I replaced the stock switch a couple years ago, and you're right, it was junk. I'll look at that sharp edge when I do the repair and replace that wire.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Oct 04, 2017
    IF you check the 'opening' in the draw pan where they have the double set of t-stats installed you will find that the rounded edge is SHARP.
    Road vibration can cause wire to rub against that sharp edge

    The 120V AC comes from a Circuit Breaker to to ON/OFF switch in outside compartment and then from Switch to top t-stat (High temp ---manual reset) then down connector wire to bottom t-stat (Normal temp--controlling t-stat) then to electric element

    Left side ---black wires....120V AC
    Right side...red wires.......12V DC (propane)




    This one shows the 120V AC 'connector' wire between t-stats burnt into

  • jetcare's avatar
    jetcare
    Explorer
    Oct 04, 2017
    Not an uncommon problem on the AC side of this model water heater. Replace the thermostat, wire and the ON/OFF switch. You will need to remove the ON/OFF switch to replace the wire. You can just pry the ON/OFF switch out for the outside. I use a cotter pin removal tool with the 90 degree end. Don't worry about damaging the switch since you are replacing it. The switch is under AMP rated in my opinion and I see lots of burned terminals, just like the wire end on the thermostat.

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