Forum Discussion

Jonesz's avatar
Jonesz
Explorer
Aug 12, 2013

Suburban Water Heater won't light

Have done all kinds of searches but am still confused. I have a Suburban SW6DE heater that will not light on propane. It was fine when stored a year ago but now does not work at all other than on shorepower after replacing the electric element which was fried. We have not used the heater on 110 V since buying the unit used 3 years ago. And I am assuming the element has always been toast. So the question I have is: How do I determine whether the problem lies with the control panel or gas valve. I don't want to order a replacement only to find I got the wrong thing. This is what happens: When I turn the heater switch on it tries to light for the 3 programmed attempts and then locks out. There is spark at the igniter but I can detect no propane odour at all. The tube from the valve to the heater seems OK and I did use a small diameter brass wire to poke into the gas oriface. I have recycled the off on switch several times in a row to make sure that the line would be charged with propane. The stove and furnace both light.Lots of propane. I used a mutimeter and checked all four connections to the valve while trying to fire the unit. There is activity at all connectors but I cannot give definite values as the readings fluctuate so widely. Any and all advice appreciated. The nearest dealer is quite a piece away. I phoned them but they do not stock the valve and would have to order one for me. Thanx

12 Replies

  • Gas Valve Malfunction
    With power supplied to ignitor, sparking should occur and the gas valve should open simultaneously.

    If sparking occurs but the valve does not open, check the following
    a) Place a voltmeter between terminal 4 on the input connector and ground (or across the valve).
    Recycle the ignitor by turning the ON/Off switch to "off" for 5 seconds and then back on to determine if voltage is present at the valve.
    b)If voltage is present and the valve still does not open, remove wires from valve terminals and retest the valve on a known voltage source.
    If valve still does not function, it should be replaced.
    c)Check the circuit board connector for good connections.
    d)If voltage is not present at terminals 4 and 6 or at the valve, replace the circuit board.

    The above info from this service manual......LINK

    The gas valve solenoids get power at same time ignitor does....for 6-8 seconds so you will need a helping hand to turn ON/OFF while you test for 12V.
  • I had one give me the same problem and it turned out to be one of the solenoids. The one closest the tank was known to fail. You can buy the valve with the solenoids for around $125 or just the solenoid for about $25.

    I pulled off my valve and took a jumper wires and you could hear and feel the good one kick in. The bad one wouldn't do anything.

    I was able to find the solenoid at PPL Motorhome , it is a White Rodgers brand. I don't recall how I figured it out what to get but I got a good tip from Chris Bryant. Maybe he will see this post and chime in.

    I don't have time to research it now but will dig around and see if I can find it.

    Off to the dentist I go where I know a good time awaits.