Suburban WH SW10DE Shorts / Burns - how to fix?
Wow, My 10 year old Suburban Water Heater shorted out somehow and activated the Smoke Detector at 2:30 AM Sunday.
Investigation (Removal of Electric Box on side of Heater) found the neutral (white) wire burned up, only the steel cone off the wire nut left (started the insulation on fire/melted about a 1x7" inch slice - what a toxic cloud of smoke that left in our living area). Hot side (Black) wire nut slightly melted from heat. Hot wired neutral from the element to the frame for testing. No juice (but breaker is still good as 120 Beeper says there's power there). Decided to check recently replaced Rocker Switch and it was fried/burned up along with the wires to it (Maybe that was the problem?). Sill need to check the Thermostat and see if its fried too...
Suburban installation instructions indicate it can be rewired. Its a very simple circuit, but how hard to fish Hot (Black) wires from box to a new switch (Hmm, maybe I should modify and put a real 120V switch in the RV as others have done - not so hard...), but what about fishing a wire from the switch to the Thermostat and then to the element?
Anyone done this?
One lesson I learned is to remove the Water Heater Electrical box, start with the 2 screws in the upper left corner of the outside panel which releases the Box (versus struggling to remove the Phillips screw on the Box lid and THEN discovering those outside screws).
Fortunately the Gas Side still works and DW is happy.
OR maybe I should have RV Service Center put in a new one or maybe try Tankless?
I've replaced the element once, the anode twice, and flush it out at least once per year.
Suggestions are appreciated!
Investigation (Removal of Electric Box on side of Heater) found the neutral (white) wire burned up, only the steel cone off the wire nut left (started the insulation on fire/melted about a 1x7" inch slice - what a toxic cloud of smoke that left in our living area). Hot side (Black) wire nut slightly melted from heat. Hot wired neutral from the element to the frame for testing. No juice (but breaker is still good as 120 Beeper says there's power there). Decided to check recently replaced Rocker Switch and it was fried/burned up along with the wires to it (Maybe that was the problem?). Sill need to check the Thermostat and see if its fried too...
Suburban installation instructions indicate it can be rewired. Its a very simple circuit, but how hard to fish Hot (Black) wires from box to a new switch (Hmm, maybe I should modify and put a real 120V switch in the RV as others have done - not so hard...), but what about fishing a wire from the switch to the Thermostat and then to the element?
Anyone done this?
One lesson I learned is to remove the Water Heater Electrical box, start with the 2 screws in the upper left corner of the outside panel which releases the Box (versus struggling to remove the Phillips screw on the Box lid and THEN discovering those outside screws).
Fortunately the Gas Side still works and DW is happy.
OR maybe I should have RV Service Center put in a new one or maybe try Tankless?
I've replaced the element once, the anode twice, and flush it out at least once per year.
Suggestions are appreciated!
