Switch for cooling fans

Chris Bryant wrote:

MRF wrote:

My electrical components are sitting directly below my refrigerator. I sealed all the necessary areas and installed vents with 120 mm computer cooling fans to force cool air across my electronics and up across the back of my refrigerator area, then exhausted through my roof vent with another fan.

I may be misunderstanding this statement, but it sounds like you have opened up vents between the bottom of the refrigerator and electronics beneath it. This is a very bad idea- the base the refrigerator is sitting on must be sealed and vented out the side- assuming we are dealing with a standard gas/electric model. LP gas is heavier than air.

Good catch!............THANK YOU FOR THAT INPUT!
I did not think of that. It is only blind luck that I am safe with my present set up.

You are correct in the venting, but I failed to clarify; I am temporarily using an apartment size, electric only fridge. Once this new RV experience/experiment is underway and if it becomes a regular part of my lifestyle, I will remove a couple of my modifications and pony up the $$$$$$ (ouch) for an RV fridge and install it properly, to include a correctly sealed and vented area. Everything I have done is easily reversible or alterable to accommodate an RV technology fridge. I already have a second cut and sized drop in floor. I will reposition the bottom fan for the electrical only (5 min), redirect the middle fan (5min) to cool the refrigerator rear area, only and leave the roof fan as is.
I am still licking my financial wounds from $6000 worth of surprise expenses in an RV I haven't even used yet, so I didn't rush to pay $1500 to $2000 for a new Norcold or Dometic.
(Insurance would only pay for the resultant fire damage, but NOT the fire source, which was the refrigerator. I am in the process of trying to get the cost covered through the insurance company's subrogation with Norcold.)