Testing a converter?

First: To fully disconnect house battery you need to life a lead, Suggest negative, ON some Motor homes you also need to lift the CHASSIS negative lead.
Set meter on VOLTS, DC, 20 volt range

NOTE that this is only one of several tests.. You should see 13.6.

ALso measure battery voltage (it should be 12.6 after sitting for an hour or two) if it's like 12.1 hook meter to Converter and re-attach battery lead.. You may see voltage increase or drop.. A DC-AMMETER (you may wish a clamp on model ) should show current near the limit of the converter. (IncreaSe or drop depends on so many variables I can not began to list them all) Also measure voltage again at the battery.


In time the converter shoudl return to 13.6 With batteries connected they should be same voltage.

Most common Converter failures.
NOTE: This first one applies mostly to me: Unplugged (don't work unplugged)
Bad connection somewhere along the current path
Blown Reverse Polarity or other fuse or breaker.
Finally we get to Converter failure. (all other issues).

NOTE: To replace fuses.. UNPLUG from shore power.. Disconnect from Batteries, REPLACE all RP fuses (These are usually 30 amp but you may have 1-2 or 3) THEN plug in, and re-connect.

After charging on the charger all night and driving an hour home the batter was it 13.56....Ok got in there and both converter fuses were blown. Replaced them. Tried the AC and still vibrated but no blown any air at all, and tried the generator again, blew a fuse like before. I'm thinking the 12v system, will have the take it to a dealer... Thanks for all the helping.

There are some "fitted" replacements for the "lower portion" but you can also just use any old deck mount on the floor under where the old one was.

You will need to do the "jumper trick" with the old 6300 fuse panel or replace it with a 7300 style fuse panel which ever route you go. (don't get a 7300 kit!!!--still only a one stage converter at 13.8v) There is an Ultra kit but that is a WFCO, so stay away!!!

That leaves PowerMax, Iota, and PDs. there are pros and cons to each of those, so to pick the right one for you, you need to know what charging profile you want to go with your camping style, available gen time, etc.

Here is one example from Randy's site (use the hornerfamily link)

http://www.bestconverter.com/Parallax-to-Boondocker-4-Stage_ep_24-1.html

OR you can just save a lot of work and leave the 6300 there and put any deck mount you like somewhere else and use that as your new converter.

Our NTU has MagneTek series model 6345 and it shows 14.1 volts all the time. Previous owner said it boiled the battery when left on. I do not leave it on now, just plug it in every 3 days. Will order from Randy one of following
Called Randy and he said a PD4645 converter. Upgrade.
I also see the PowerMax PM4B-60 (60 Amp 4-Stage Converter/Charger)
The powermax has a little higher charging voltage, but is not the upgrade. I have plenty of room, would it be better and easy to install

Since access is difficult consider pulling the unit and bench testing with a plug and battery.

Turn off power to the converter, before crawling in there, if the fuses are bad you want to replace both, come out and then turn power back on

Another easy test to see if the converter is working. Do this with the battery charger removed. Measure the battery voltage. Turn off the circuit breaker feeding the converter. If the voltage falls the converter is putting out something. If the voltage doesn't change then it is not working.

Said differently, when the converter is turned on it WILL cause the voltage to rise by a noticeable amount if it is working.

JAXFL wrote:
I'll check when I can crawl in the cabinet.... It dark now, thanks for the info.

Better have a safety number with you in case you get stuck in there, the way things have been going! :)

I'll check when I can crawl in the cabinet.... It dark now, thanks for the info.

JAXFL wrote:
So did you ever change out the reverse polarity fuses in the converter or not before starting this thread?

Don't know there was a reverse polarity fuses in the converter?

Where? How?

See the two green ones on this example? Something similar on yours or on the nearby DC fuse panel (often a pair of 30a fuses, but could be three or four of other amps depending on your size and brand of converter) Change both if even if only one appears blown.

http://www.bestconverter.com/PowerMax-PM4B-60-60-Amp-4-Stage-ConverterCharger_p_413.html#.VkfZSHmFNjo