This Is Plan For My Own Battery CHARGER
AMMO CAN BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM Switch type power supplies have made transformer battery chargers obsolete. The new power supplies are so small, and less heat producing it is possible to stuff a ...
Forum Discussion
I never could understand Mex's charging method where I think he says he can maintain a constant current with a fixed voltage of 14.8 or 15.5 whatever using one of his chargers.
I only have chargers that do constant amps at their current limits while battery voltage rises and then when voltage is held constant, the battery acceptance of amps starts to decline (taper) since the battery just can't take as many amps as its SOC rises unless you let the voltage rise.
So it is against all Nature to be able to get a battery to keep accepting the same amps with a constant voltage as the battery SOC rises. AFAIK. But Mex has a way? Obviously there is more to this business I have yet to learn.
Since the OP is a lot of work and money just to get a 60amp charger, the whole point must be to achieve the apparent miracle of constant amps with constant voltage.
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Meanwhile I am glad to see Mr Wiz still has his 68100 going. I remember he had doubts about replacing his old one, but he got the new one under warranty with fingers crossed. Turns out to have been the right move.
The PowerMax 100amper I have is similar and I really like it. Yes they do have big inrush! Long thread on that this past winter on finding the right input thermistor for mine after I blew one. (cure is to connect to batteries first and then start the charger, and also if your generator quits don't restart the charger right away or it will blow the thermistor. Let it cool for a couple hours first.)
Interesting about the Honda 2000 and the PF corrected 100amper.
To prevent a shutdown on start-up, the Honda 3000 I use needs to be started no load, allowed to warm up for a couple minutes --eco off is better for that--then start the 100amper, and once it is all going ok, then turn eco on. The news Mr Wiz just gave is that the 2000 won't get you started even if you do that procedure if I have that right.
ISTR the 68100 has a boost button which the PowerMax does not have, so I wonder if you could start the 68100 with a Honda 2000 at 13.6, then after it is up and running ok, hit the boost button to get it to 14.4? I don't know if that would strain the input thermistor jumping to 14.4 from 13.8 after it is already running.
I only have chargers that do constant amps at their current limits while battery voltage rises and then when voltage is held constant, the battery acceptance of amps starts to decline (taper) since the battery just can't take as many amps as its SOC rises unless you let the voltage rise.
So it is against all Nature to be able to get a battery to keep accepting the same amps with a constant voltage as the battery SOC rises. AFAIK. But Mex has a way? Obviously there is more to this business I have yet to learn.
Since the OP is a lot of work and money just to get a 60amp charger, the whole point must be to achieve the apparent miracle of constant amps with constant voltage.
------
Meanwhile I am glad to see Mr Wiz still has his 68100 going. I remember he had doubts about replacing his old one, but he got the new one under warranty with fingers crossed. Turns out to have been the right move.
The PowerMax 100amper I have is similar and I really like it. Yes they do have big inrush! Long thread on that this past winter on finding the right input thermistor for mine after I blew one. (cure is to connect to batteries first and then start the charger, and also if your generator quits don't restart the charger right away or it will blow the thermistor. Let it cool for a couple hours first.)
Interesting about the Honda 2000 and the PF corrected 100amper.
To prevent a shutdown on start-up, the Honda 3000 I use needs to be started no load, allowed to warm up for a couple minutes --eco off is better for that--then start the 100amper, and once it is all going ok, then turn eco on. The news Mr Wiz just gave is that the 2000 won't get you started even if you do that procedure if I have that right.
ISTR the 68100 has a boost button which the PowerMax does not have, so I wonder if you could start the 68100 with a Honda 2000 at 13.6, then after it is up and running ok, hit the boost button to get it to 14.4? I don't know if that would strain the input thermistor jumping to 14.4 from 13.8 after it is already running.
