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punomatic's avatar
punomatic
Explorer
Oct 01, 2014

Tracking a pesky leak

Well, it is bound to happen to all of us, I guess; a rite of passage, perhaps.

On our recent camping trip we had some moderate rain, accompanied by fairly strong (20-25mph) winds. Around bedtime, DW noticed water dripping from the corner of a skylight in the middle of our TC. The drips came in some time after the rain had stopped. I would say about a total of about a teaspoonful of water dripped from the skylight.

I had just been working on caulking on the roof immediately prior to the trip, so I was understandably bummed out about this problem, especially since, upon inspection, I had felt the caulking around the skylight was in good condition.

So, my question is, how do I track down where the water is gaining entrance? I know it could be coming through the roof at one place and finding a way inside at someplace remote from that. Any ideas?
  • Travelcrafter wrote:
    I've been resealing my old R V roof and used a product called Sikaflex on the side seams that done a real nice job or, at least looks like it did. I bought Dicor self leveling sealer for the flat seams like my sky lights witch I started today. I liked how the Dicor flowed out and leveled and I was confident I had done a good job. now I wonder if I'll have the same experience. I like the pressure test idea for leak location but could you actually cause a leak by blowing a seal. the only other thing I could think of is coloring water and pouring it in suspect areas but,then you have a problem of staining the ceiling.so maybe look the roof over and ID areas then pour clean water over one at a time till you find the one that hits.
    The pressure test doesn't cause any seal damage. Pressures are limited to 1-2" of water column. Spraying water on the outside and looking for leaks inside is like trying to kill prairie dogs by filling an entrance hole. You'll be very lucky to the find the water intrusion point by putting water on the outside and will never know if that is the only one.
  • I had a tiny drip onto the toilet lid in hard rains when the Tiger was new. Soon returned to the factory on a trip for a few other small items. They recaulked around the vent (openable, no fan). No fix. It turned out to be one of the rivets holding the plastic cover to the metal crank-up frame. A tiny dab of silicone has held for about 8.5 years now.

    Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
  • I had just been working on caulking on the roof immediately prior to the trip,


    Doesn't take to much for a small fissure crack to leak if wasn't fully cured before trip. Grab a disposable paint brush and go around skylight flashing one more time.

    I carry a quart of this stuff with me just in case. I like how it performs but admit I don't like how long it takes to totally dry. Seems to work itself into tiny cracks better than other stuff I've used. Maybe that's why drying time takes longer?

    Someone told me you can't get this in CA if that's where your located. To many VOC's?

    http://www.inlandcoatings.com/rc2000.htm

    And disposable wear gloves, pain to wash up afterwards.

    If in doubt look at there case studies http://www.inlandcoatings.com/casestudies.html

    Stuff is not cheap. And I think gallon is smallest size you can buy. I did one 35 ft 5th wheel and one 26 ft class C and carry spare quart for emergencies, total amount used was about a gallon. If you have a roof color other than white PM me and I'll send info on tinting per their instructions. That is if you decide to go this route.
  • Look for a repair facility that uses the Sealtech system. I think that Eric's in Sequim uses it.

    It is a method that pressurizes the coach from the inside and watches for bubbles on the outside. You can do it yourself with a leaf blower and there are UTubes showing how to do it.
  • I've been resealing my old R V roof and used a product called Sikaflex on the side seams that done a real nice job or, at least looks like it did. I bought Dicor self leveling sealer for the flat seams like my sky lights witch I started today. I liked how the Dicor flowed out and leveled and I was confident I had done a good job. now I wonder if I'll have the same experience. I like the pressure test idea for leak location but could you actually cause a leak by blowing a seal. the only other thing I could think of is coloring water and pouring it in suspect areas but,then you have a problem of staining the ceiling.so maybe look the roof over and ID areas then pour clean water over one at a time till you find the one that hits.
  • Switched from Dicor to Gaco roof a couple years ago and no more leaks. Dicor splits open after a couple years. Got tired of baby sitting a product that did not last. If RV. dealers used Gaco there would be a lot less leaks in RVs.

    Pogoil.
  • Pressurized leak test turns up even a pinhole. You can DIY by using a device that pushes a lot of air like a leaf blower or squirrel cage. The process is to seal RV (as much as possible), direct the air inside, and spray soapy water on the exterior.

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