Trailer Electric Brakes shudder at low speed....Why?

Try cleaning all of your braking surfaces with a solvent made for brakes.

My 2500HD started shuddering when under very heavy loads. Not sure if this is correct but, per some break info I found online, I think on PowerStop web page, they say that if you get the rotors very hot, such as down a very steep grade, and then stop the vehicle and hold the brakes applied after stopping, some of the metal from the pads bonds with metal of the rotor. Over time, this causes "hot spots" causing the pads to grab more in some spots on the rotor.

When the pad grabs on one side and then grabs at a slightly different time on the other side as the wheels rotate you get shudder.

When I had to keep my brakes on for extended braking, the shudder got worse. Depending on how hard I pressed the peddle, it would almost jerk the steering wheel out of my hands. Bad feeling when your rig doesn't want to stop. Let brakes cool and it would stop ok but I could still feel a slight shudder.

I replaced all 4 with a set of heavy duty vented rotors and pads, followed their break in procedure, and I try not to hold the brakes on after stopping. All has been good since.

Not sure if this issue could affect a trailer brake.

Baja Man wrote:
I guess I will remove drums and inspect. I will service as needed. I have read about chamfering leading edge of shoes, and will sand them down these leading edges.
I also know about arcing shoes to drums but I believe that may be a practice rarely employed anywhere/anymore.

When the time comes to replace shoes, I will search for someone (hopefully near me) that will turn drums and arc shoes accordingly.

Chamfering the shoes does basically the same as arcing used to do- eliminates the 'grabiness'.

I guess I will remove drums and inspect. I will service as needed. I have read about chamfering leading edge of shoes, and will sand them down these leading edges.
I also know about arcing shoes to drums but I believe that may be a practice rarely employed anywhere/anymore.

When the time comes to replace shoes, I will search for someone (hopefully near me) that will turn drums and arc shoes accordingly.

Many brake controllers have two adjustments.
One is the magnitude of the pulse to the brakes which is obvious and adjusted with numbers
Not so obvious on many controllers is a little slide adjustment on the side which controls how aggressive the brakes are. Reduce the aggressiveness of your brakes. Look under there with a headlamp and see if you can find it.

None of the above. ;) I had the same problem with our then new Coachmen but my dealer tech knew of a solution that would solve it - chamfering the leading edge of each brake shoe. That did it, no more shuddering, ever. :B

I would adjust shoes first and see if that helps. Also possible a seal went bad and you have some grease on shoes.

Most likely just need a little use to knock the rust off.

Had a similar issue on our last trailer and cleared up after the first couple days of towing.

A few years back I bought a little mitsubishi mirage, brakes pulsed badly when I test drove, told dealer and he offered an additional $200 off price, so I took it. By the time i drove it 120 miles home, they were fine. These were disc, and when I took the wheels off to check you sould still see some discoloration where the pads had sat against one spot on the disc for a long period.
Drove it another 20,000 miles before replacing.
As RCMAN said, drive around some, a few somewhat firmer stops and it likely will ease.

Rust on the brake drums.

Out of round brake drums.

If rust do several hard stops from 60 mph.