Triton V10 maintenance
Before our next trip (into the Rockies) we thought we should check on maintenance for the Chinook. I've researched some around the internet and I find it hard to get apples to apples. Someone mi...
Forum Discussion
DandD2015 writes "Ours is built on a 2005 E350 Super Duty Ford with a V10 Triton under the hood. It has 77K miles and we aren't privvy to what maintenance it has had in the past but the coach is in very good condition so we assume it's been at least average. This is at a Dallas (area) Texas Ford dealer.
After looking it over they gave us this estimate.
INSTALL NEW SPARK PLUGS $661.79"
That IS pretty much a "normal" price for full replacement of Triton plugs PROVIDED that the shop does not have any trouble.
Not sure if 2005 has the infamous Two Piece plugs that break off but I do know our 2006 5.4 DOES have them. Those plugs tend to get stuck during removal and end up snapping off. Requires a special extraction tool if you break one.
For those who do not know much about the Triton plug placement and think $700 is over the top expensive, you NEED to understand that these plugs are set deep into a "well" which is about 6" deep. The back several cylinders on each side you cannot even see the tops of the plugs.
There are wire looms, vacuum lines and some models removal of the air filter box IS needed in order to reach the COPS.
On top of that you NEED multiple lengths of extensions and you NEED to black tape the socket to the extension or risk it falling off and you spend a half hour fishing it out.. Or buy the special socket with extension built on..
If nothing goes wrong a DIYer might be able to change the plugs in about 4 hrs.. Something goes wrong and you might be driving it to a mechanic on one or more missing cylinders.
ONE HIGHLY IMPORTANT THING I MUST MAKE FOLKS AWARE OF.. The mechanic MUST TORQUE THE PLUGS TO THE PROPER SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE YEAR OF THE ENGINE..
FAILURE TO USE A TORQUE WRENCH WILL RESULT IN THE PLUGS GETTING LOOSE AND/OR SPRAYING RAW FUEL IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND POSSIBLY CAUSING THE ENGINE TO DUMP EXCESS FUEL (RICH CONDITION) INTO THE EXHAUST AND CATS.. THIS CONDITION WILL POISON THE CATS AND O2 SENSORS.
I ran into the raw fuel problem with our 2006 5.4, had the dealer change the plugs, then after that we started smelling raw fuel in thecab but only when backing up.. Dealer on multiple occasions gave our truck back with No Problem Found..
I ended up pulling the COPS and found each plug at least 1/2 turn loose!
Spec on 2006 is 27ft lbs on replacement plugs, factory set to 33 ft lbs..
"FUEL INJ FLUSH $179.95
DECARB ENGINE $149.95"
These two are a total waste of money AND could possibly lead to causing MORE HARM than good, SKIP THIS.
"THROTTLE BODY SERVICE $99.95"
This one "might" be a good idea so to speak depending on what version of Throttle body you have..
If yours have the electronic drive by wire (no direct throttle cable) the throttle body plate tends to get gummed up from the PCV valve port which sits directly UNDER the throttle plate.. This one is a real stinker for sure.. The computer commands the throttle plate and the gummy build up prevents the plate from opening or closing..
The computer will turn on the WRENCH light and disable the throttle and you cannot even get enough throttle to move the vehicle. You do get symptoms leading up to the wrench of excessively slow idle and stalling when putting vehicle into reverse..
This one however can be a DIY repair and $99 is a excessive price if you are having the plugs done. You need to remove the air filter box if it is on top of the throttle body, then with a helper you key on with not starting the engine. The helper presses and holds the go peddle to the floor. This opens the throttle plate.
You then spay some throttle body cleaner onto a clean rag then using the rag swab the inside of the throttle body making sure you clean the edges of the throttle plate and as far down as you can reach..
Avoid directly spraying cleaner into the throttle body unless you don't mind waiting overnight before starting the engine.. Takes a while for the cleaner fumes to evaporate out of there.. and excess fumes it will act like a flooded carbed engine.
"REAR AXLE SERVICE $229.95"
Total waste of money with only 70K miles, if it makes you feel good, you can check the fluid level by pulling the fill plug and using your finger to dip into the axle housing.. Gear oil should be near the top of the plug hole..
"TRANSMISSION SERVICE $219.95"
Not sure what they are "servicing" but you can "refresh" the transmission fluid yourself by pulling the transmission pan plug and draining the pan.. Replace plug and refill the pan.. Repeat that over several months and you will have replaced 95% of the transmission fluid..
No need to remove the pan, the filter in the pan is nothing more than a screen..
"COOLANT FLUSH $179.95"
Once again, this is a DIY thing, you can partially drain your coolant using the lower radiator drain. Drain out a few gallons and replace and repeat twice over several months and it too will be 95% replaced..
BUT, I would just simply check the antifreeze strength instead, 70K is nothing for coolant..
"BRAKE FLUSH $109.95"
Once again, not needed at 70K unless the fluid is dark or milky indication contamination.. If it maks you feel good, a turkey baster can be used to remove fluid out of the reservoir then refill to top mark.
Just be aware that you can assess the condition of your brake pads by seeing how low the fluid is.. If fluid is below the top fill mark then the pads are getting worn and may need a visual inspection..
"POWER STEERING FLUSH $109.95"
Once again, waste of money at 70K, if you feel the need to refresh a turkey baster can be used to remove some fluid and then refill to top mark.. Repeat several times and it will be 95% refreshed..
"BATTERY SERVICE $29.95"
Umm, who in the right mind would pay someone for battery servicing, this one sounds like padding the bill for sure..
You can do a visual on the terminals, costs nothing and if the battery has removable caps you can check the electrolyte level but if sealed nothing can be done..
"They also charged us $139 for checking the brakes per our request. They said they have 11 mm, which is good."
They should have checked the brakes for free with all the stuff they are quoting..
"Totalling that out:
Parts $1,971.34
Labor $139.00
SS $59.95
Tax $162.64
Total $2,332.93 "
An excessively EXPENSIVE PADDED bill with too many completely unneeded "services".
I would suggest perhaps finding a different dealer and have the plugs changed, those are one of the most difficult and potentially expensive things to be done and a 70K it is a good idea to at least get them out and replaced before they cause problems.
Just make darn sure they use a torque wrench to set the plugs, failure to do this step will result in popping plugs.
After looking it over they gave us this estimate.
INSTALL NEW SPARK PLUGS $661.79"
That IS pretty much a "normal" price for full replacement of Triton plugs PROVIDED that the shop does not have any trouble.
Not sure if 2005 has the infamous Two Piece plugs that break off but I do know our 2006 5.4 DOES have them. Those plugs tend to get stuck during removal and end up snapping off. Requires a special extraction tool if you break one.
For those who do not know much about the Triton plug placement and think $700 is over the top expensive, you NEED to understand that these plugs are set deep into a "well" which is about 6" deep. The back several cylinders on each side you cannot even see the tops of the plugs.
There are wire looms, vacuum lines and some models removal of the air filter box IS needed in order to reach the COPS.
On top of that you NEED multiple lengths of extensions and you NEED to black tape the socket to the extension or risk it falling off and you spend a half hour fishing it out.. Or buy the special socket with extension built on..
If nothing goes wrong a DIYer might be able to change the plugs in about 4 hrs.. Something goes wrong and you might be driving it to a mechanic on one or more missing cylinders.
ONE HIGHLY IMPORTANT THING I MUST MAKE FOLKS AWARE OF.. The mechanic MUST TORQUE THE PLUGS TO THE PROPER SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE YEAR OF THE ENGINE..
FAILURE TO USE A TORQUE WRENCH WILL RESULT IN THE PLUGS GETTING LOOSE AND/OR SPRAYING RAW FUEL IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND POSSIBLY CAUSING THE ENGINE TO DUMP EXCESS FUEL (RICH CONDITION) INTO THE EXHAUST AND CATS.. THIS CONDITION WILL POISON THE CATS AND O2 SENSORS.
I ran into the raw fuel problem with our 2006 5.4, had the dealer change the plugs, then after that we started smelling raw fuel in thecab but only when backing up.. Dealer on multiple occasions gave our truck back with No Problem Found..
I ended up pulling the COPS and found each plug at least 1/2 turn loose!
Spec on 2006 is 27ft lbs on replacement plugs, factory set to 33 ft lbs..
"FUEL INJ FLUSH $179.95
DECARB ENGINE $149.95"
These two are a total waste of money AND could possibly lead to causing MORE HARM than good, SKIP THIS.
"THROTTLE BODY SERVICE $99.95"
This one "might" be a good idea so to speak depending on what version of Throttle body you have..
If yours have the electronic drive by wire (no direct throttle cable) the throttle body plate tends to get gummed up from the PCV valve port which sits directly UNDER the throttle plate.. This one is a real stinker for sure.. The computer commands the throttle plate and the gummy build up prevents the plate from opening or closing..
The computer will turn on the WRENCH light and disable the throttle and you cannot even get enough throttle to move the vehicle. You do get symptoms leading up to the wrench of excessively slow idle and stalling when putting vehicle into reverse..
This one however can be a DIY repair and $99 is a excessive price if you are having the plugs done. You need to remove the air filter box if it is on top of the throttle body, then with a helper you key on with not starting the engine. The helper presses and holds the go peddle to the floor. This opens the throttle plate.
You then spay some throttle body cleaner onto a clean rag then using the rag swab the inside of the throttle body making sure you clean the edges of the throttle plate and as far down as you can reach..
Avoid directly spraying cleaner into the throttle body unless you don't mind waiting overnight before starting the engine.. Takes a while for the cleaner fumes to evaporate out of there.. and excess fumes it will act like a flooded carbed engine.
"REAR AXLE SERVICE $229.95"
Total waste of money with only 70K miles, if it makes you feel good, you can check the fluid level by pulling the fill plug and using your finger to dip into the axle housing.. Gear oil should be near the top of the plug hole..
"TRANSMISSION SERVICE $219.95"
Not sure what they are "servicing" but you can "refresh" the transmission fluid yourself by pulling the transmission pan plug and draining the pan.. Replace plug and refill the pan.. Repeat that over several months and you will have replaced 95% of the transmission fluid..
No need to remove the pan, the filter in the pan is nothing more than a screen..
"COOLANT FLUSH $179.95"
Once again, this is a DIY thing, you can partially drain your coolant using the lower radiator drain. Drain out a few gallons and replace and repeat twice over several months and it too will be 95% replaced..
BUT, I would just simply check the antifreeze strength instead, 70K is nothing for coolant..
"BRAKE FLUSH $109.95"
Once again, not needed at 70K unless the fluid is dark or milky indication contamination.. If it maks you feel good, a turkey baster can be used to remove fluid out of the reservoir then refill to top mark.
Just be aware that you can assess the condition of your brake pads by seeing how low the fluid is.. If fluid is below the top fill mark then the pads are getting worn and may need a visual inspection..
"POWER STEERING FLUSH $109.95"
Once again, waste of money at 70K, if you feel the need to refresh a turkey baster can be used to remove some fluid and then refill to top mark.. Repeat several times and it will be 95% refreshed..
"BATTERY SERVICE $29.95"
Umm, who in the right mind would pay someone for battery servicing, this one sounds like padding the bill for sure..
You can do a visual on the terminals, costs nothing and if the battery has removable caps you can check the electrolyte level but if sealed nothing can be done..
"They also charged us $139 for checking the brakes per our request. They said they have 11 mm, which is good."
They should have checked the brakes for free with all the stuff they are quoting..
"Totalling that out:
Parts $1,971.34
Labor $139.00
SS $59.95
Tax $162.64
Total $2,332.93 "
An excessively EXPENSIVE PADDED bill with too many completely unneeded "services".
I would suggest perhaps finding a different dealer and have the plugs changed, those are one of the most difficult and potentially expensive things to be done and a 70K it is a good idea to at least get them out and replaced before they cause problems.
Just make darn sure they use a torque wrench to set the plugs, failure to do this step will result in popping plugs.
