Troubleshooting Electric Nash 22H

tmoneysju wrote:
I bought a new battery when I got the trailer because I wasn't sure of the condition of the old one
So far I've gotten a good reading using a multimeter from the battery posts (+- about 13 volts)
I've visually inspected all fuses and replaced the 3 20a ones just for good measure
Kevin

First of all.. are you sure that the terminals are connected properly. You wouldn't be the first to make that mistake.. and is it possible that you received it incorrectly wired and just reconnected it wrong? Secondly.. there will be a fuse somewhere between the positive lead and the converter. See if you can locate that and check it. That is likely the cause of your problem.

Yes, there will be a 30 amp DC breaker where the positive cable from the battery connects to trailer main. Probably not far from the battery. Some are re-settable, some are not. 2004 should have a battery disconnect, probably close to the connection above.
Either one could be the problem.

Both the Converter running off shore power or generator and the DC battery connections feed the 12VDC Power Distribution Point where all of the 12VDC Fuses are located. This then allows the converter to be a battery charger when on shore power and keeps your batteries charged up when you are connected to shore power or generator.

Being a 2004 model you have no idea what has been changed by the previous owner(s)...

Using a inexpensive DC voltmeter for Harbor freight or any of the auto parts stores you should be able to disconnect from shore power or generator and just follow the 12VDC voltage from the battery terminals to where they connect to the +BAT connection on the 12VDC Power distribution panel.

A fully charged battery will read 12.6-7VDC and when it is being charged by the converter unit when it is plugged into shore power or generator will then jump up to 13.6VDC on your older trailer that is probably still using a single DC voltage older type converter unit.

If you don't see this increase in DC voltage when on shore power at the battery terminals then you are disconnected somewhere.

There should be a DC FUSE real close to the battery probably in the 35AMP rating and then near the converter connection you should see two high amps fuses off to them self labeled REVERSE POLARITY... All three of these should blow if the battery is REVERSED CONNECTED protecting your battery cables from overheating and cause a fire.

A quick test of course is your 12V ceiling lights should work from your batteries when unhooked from shore power or generator.

I would look at the 12V battery terminals and find the word 'NEG' or the symbol '-' stamped on the battery case and hand follow that terminal connection to make sure it is the one that goes to FRAME GROUND real close to the battery install position.

I test my battery terminals every time we stop at a campground connection and make sure I see the increase in Battery DC Voltage when we hookup to shore power. This tells us right away we are fully connected between the trailer converter circuit and the batteries terminals and the battery is being charged like it is suppose to be doing.

All of this is not complicated and you should know what to look for as part of your generator maintenance observations with your new to you trailer.

Lets us all know what you find out...

Roy Ken

You said anything
If you mean 120vac items, like tv, MW, fridge on electric, air conditioner etc..
Those work from shore power when plugged in, or from generator power
You can get an ' INVERTER' that makes 120v from battery for watching tv , but then you still need to recharge the batteries, this means shore power, generator, or maybe solar panels
Big items like MW , coffee maker, require a large inverter or generator, air conditioning is generator or shore power, only!

I own a 2006 Nash 26X, not a Nash 22H. My 26X does not have an inverter so therefore none of the AC electrical items will run when not plugged in to shore power. I'm making the assumption here that usually the larger units have more features than the smaller units - therefore if mine doesn't have an inverter then yours doesn't either. Mine also doesn't have a factory battery disconnect either, but a smart previous owner might have installed one.

While there are certainly some Nash owners on this site, go over to the Nash RV Owners Assoc where you get more answers from people owning the same TT. It's down at the moment for site upgrades but should be up by this evening.

Bill

Please define anything? AC, ceiling fan, microwave or lights, furnace, refer.
Refer is dual fuel, but always reauires 12VDC for anything to work. Also refer will need anout 24 hours cool down time.

trailer has 2 electrical systems

A 120V AC for microwave, A/C Unit, outlets and electric heat elements in fridge/water heater plus feed to converter

12V DC for lights, water pump, furnace, t-stat controls (A/C & Furnace), control circuits for fridge/water heater, jacks/tongue etc.

Converter will supply 12V DC and recharge battery when you are hooked up to shore power (or using generator)

Battery supplies 12V DC system when not hooked up to AC power source

POS cable from battery....trace it
S/B an in-line fuse (or small 2 stud box---DC circuit breaker) on/under trailer tongue frame before POS cable goes inside trailer.

Also converter will have 1 or 2 larger amp fuses (30A or so) for 'reverse polarity' protection if battery cables get hooked up backwards.

First of all I want to say thank you for all of the replies, they're much appreciated. As for 120 vs 12, a combination of being a newbie as well as panicking when I couldn't even get a light turned on turned into saying "anything". Once I corrected the problem it only took me a minute or two before it hit me, "oh yeah, tv and outlets work off 120, not 12", haha.

On to the fix....the first sentence of the first response did it. I'll admit when I read it my first thought was, yeah yeah, red to red, black to black. Well, that works when the wires are color coded properly! My wiring setup has 1 hot and 2 grounds coming off of the battery. One of the grounds has a white jacket with a red connector. After I read that first post I really crawled underneath and traced the wires. Don't ya know it, that one went to a bolt on the chassis. A 30 second fix and I had lights (but no tv :-) ) again.

And to 'You can't take the Fisherman out of this Camper', I owe you a virtual beer.

Thanks all,

Kevin