This is the inverter I am using. I bought it on Amazon, and it was about $200. The price was attractive and I like red. Oh yeah, it’s pure sine, too. Unless it dies an early death, I’m happy as a clam with it.
I put it here, just above the step into the cabover bed. My 18 year old TC has a battery box big enough for ONE group 31 battery. There isn’t a good place to add extra batteries without doing major remodeling, so my goal has been to make the most of what I have. The route the cables needed to take to reach the battery made them just under 6 feet long. I’m using 0 AWG Temco fine strand welding cable with crimped lugs. It’s very flexible and easy to work with.
I also cleaned up the wiring in the battery box by adding buss bars just outside the box to make the connections that were all on the battery posts. The battery box is on the other side of this panel I made.
If the converter in your camper includes a smart battery charging unit, then I don’t think a hybrid inverter Is really necessary to get some load sharing, because your generator or solar system is going to do whatever it can do through the battery charger or solar controller when you’re using the inverter anyway.
I don’t want the inverter trying to power anything I don’t have plugged directly in to it, so I didn’t buy one with a transfer switch.
The inverter is used to run the microwave when shore power isn’t available, and to run the fridge in AC mode while driving. Most of the time (>95% of the time) when we’re dry camping, the Yamaha 1000 is running in the evenings anyway. I don’t want to have to start the big Generac that’s built in to the camper just to use the microwave for a few minutes. The microwave will run off the inverter for nearly an hour if the Yamaha is helping to support the load. If the battery is at full charge, it will run the microwave at least 15-20 minutes on its own.
The cabling is obviously very important. The cable I used doesn’t even get warm when pulling almost 100 amps from the battery continuously.
:):)