trying to figure out L16RE vs t105 at 48 volt worth the diff

The truck it self is a 12 volt system but the Diesel engine starter I think run on 24 volts with the way the battery hook to it . It's just a dodge 2012 2500

Yea I'm trying to figure out this whole volt , Amps and watts thing . I can do the numbers but I can't seem to wrap my mind in what I would really need

Mena wrote, "36 hrs with a 370Ah bank but that's at 12V"

Is it really that much? So 370/225 gets you 16.4 vs 10 linear, so 6.4 hrs more, but Peukert actually gets you 26 hrs more?

That's a lot. In view of the implications of this, can we get a second opinion on the math?

Thanks

Need to know the year and model of the tractor. Which engine? Copy and post an image of the alternator.

TIME AMPS is the same 2 volts 2,000,000 volts when batteries are connected in series. It's WATTAGE of the load that you are getting confused by. Peukert's Constant applies exactly the same. Now, ponder what quadrupling the voltage to a given wattage load does to the Constant.

06GTORR wrote:
good call on the alternator sitting on its butt while driving.
maybe ill just go with a 24 volt system.

I know my truck has two batteries and i think it has a 24volt to the starter. lucky i still have a month or two before i order.

When you stay try and limit road shock will it add life to the L16's ?

I could mount them on a small rubber mount to take the jarring out of some of the big bumps ?

You have a 24V system in your truck? What truck is this?

BFL13 wrote:
The 370AH bank has 18.5 amps as the 20 hr rate, so operating at 11 amps gets you much longer than the 10 hrs to get to 50%.

36 hrs with a 370Ah bank but that's at 12V. Not sure how to figure it out with a 48V bank.

06GTORR wrote:
one is 225 amp hrs other is 370 amp hrs.

well it looks like i can only pull(t105) 10 amps per hour and(l16) 18 amps a hr for 20 hrs

its sound like it wouldn't last long powering a camping ? but i feel like this is way more then enough batteries with a 4400watt 48volt magnum inverter

The 20hr rate (in amps) for the 225AH pair is 11.25 amps. You can draw that for 10hrs to get to 50% left on the battery, which is as low as you would normally want to go.

If you have a higher amp draw than that, you will get less than 10 hrs and that is not linear (see Peukert) and if your draw is less than that you can go longer before reaching 50%

RVing usually means a mix of high and low draws but 11 amps would be a typical sustained amount.

If your bank is higher in AH, and your typical draw is still 11 amps, you gain extra due to Peukert. The 370AH bank has 18.5 amps as the 20 hr rate, so operating at 11 amps gets you much longer than the 10 hrs to get to 50%.

Somebody with a Peukert calculator could show (I think) that the extra time is more than (370/225 x 10 = 16.4) that 6.4 hrs.

good call on the alternator sitting on its butt while driving.
maybe ill just go with a 24 volt system.

I know my truck has two batteries and i think it has a 24volt to the starter. lucky i still have a month or two before i order.

When you stay try and limit road shock will it add life to the L16's ?

I could mount them on a small rubber mount to take the jarring out of some of the big bumps ?

ALTERNATIVE charging sources are much more expensive as voltage increases from 12 volts. With a generator and charger or solar panels this is not a challenge. But running down a highway with an alternator sitting on it's butt is perhaps the main drawback to higher voltage. I had two alternators on my Crown conversion. When both were engaged fully, you could see the fuel pump link arm move a quarter inch! This is back when a "real-deal" on Kyocera panels meant 290 dollars for 51 watts. Times sure have changed.

Try to PROTECT those L16's as much as possible from road shock.

Hi,

Yes, 48 volts is better. For stationary banks, where they don't travel with you, it is a no brainer. For traveling banks it requires twice as many jars. 8 are a lot harder to find cargo capacity and a good location than 4.

To use 48 or 24 a good dc to dc converter may be the best route to go, rather than redoing all the electronics in the RV. 2oldman uses 24 volts and has such a converter.

I found room for seven batteries, which is another reason I stayed with 12 volt jars.

06GTORR wrote:
Thank you guys for all the help after I get every mounted up and fitted I'll find out what I can fit the l16 would be tight but I think it will be worth it . For the added life

I've thought about 24volt but have been told 48 is where it's at for bigger battery stores

The reason for 24V and 48V vs 12V is primarily to save costs on wiring. Higher voltages mean smaller size wiring (and possibly longer wiring runs). Anyway, keep us posted on what you end up doing.

Thank you guys for all the help after I get every mounted up and fitted I'll find out what I can fit the l16 would be tight but I think it will be worth it . For the added life

I've thought about 24volt but have been told 48 is where it's at for bigger battery stores