BFL13 wrote:
Here is that colour code info--note the table for GM, Ford, and Dodge.
Drive you crazy matching with the standard 7-pin colours and the way the OEM is in two parts facing in the middle while the end of the outer part faces the trailer.
http://www.iegtoclub.com/Tech%20Lib/trailer_wiring_information.htm
Thanks for that! Below is a photo of what the GM plug looks like. It also has a connector/plug that connects the truck's wiring harness to the plug. So that's another set of contacts that can go bad. Not a great design electrically speaking. Going to try and find a new 7-pin plug and hardwire it into the harness instead and eliminate a potential source of a poor connection. To heck if I'm going to pay the GM dealer the $100 Can. they want for a new one.
There was a tag hanging off the harness near the bumper. Barely readable but can cross-reference it the info. you linked to.
RCMAN46 wrote:
The P3 has a whole host of diagnostic features. Such as it will tell you what the voltage and current that is being delivered to the trailer.
Have you used any of the diagnostic features?
Yes, have been using it for checking the output current and voltage. At first I was only getting about 0.4 amps, now I'm getting up to around 14 amp when I use the manual lever. What I'm not sure why is that the voltage still reads next to nothing while it looks okay at the back of the truck.
Yesterday I talked to Tekonsha and the tech. suggested using a 12 volt incandescent bulb right at the output of the b/c. That's when I was able to determine that the controller was working fine and it had to be the truck wiring.
