TV recepytiom

INDIAN347 wrote:
It has the newer style antenna . I'l try the suggestions thanks very much . Jim

Let us know what worked. I have a similar problem. Only my bedroom TV loses channels, the more times I scan. Start with 10, then 7, then 3, then none. Why continue to scan? Because it starts with 10 channels that come in, and they slowly all fade away.

Never picks up as many channels as the LR TV or even the storage area TV. Pulled everything I can get to. All tight.

It has the newer style antenna . I'l try the suggestions thanks very much . Jim

BurbMan wrote:
I replaced my signal booster with a the new Winegard Sensar Pro, and along with the Wingman attachment to the Winegard crank-up antenna we get a whole bunch of channels. 37 in fact on last trip out, but we were close to town.

One of the parks I frequent:
Batwing, Nothing or 1 if I'm lucky
Batwing with wingman, like 2 stations
Batwing with wingman and Sensar pro.. Varies depending on things I have yet to figure out but on a good day.. I get 'me all including a couple from the other side of the river (It's a border town, the "River" (St. Clair River) divides USA and Canada)

Oh yes, I like that Sensar Pro.

You are welcome. It's a great device. I love mine!

Thanks Bill.... Once I get back I will look into re wiring this thing and adding one.

ford truck guy wrote:
What if you do not have a wall plate ?? where would the sensor pro go then ?We have a Winegard entertainment center with the booster built in..

This is a very easy setup. Just get the video controller out so you can see the back. The 12V power that goes into the controller will be moved to the Sensar Pro. You remove the coax from the back of the video controller that says TV antenna and connect it to the Antenna connection on the Sensar Pro. You then run a jumper from the Ant. 1 (or 2) connection on the Sensar Pro back into the controller where you removed the coax. That's it, you are done.
If the video controller also has a connection for a DVD (Red/White/Yellow) that you use you need to leave 12V power going to that controller and you just jump the 12V from that connection to the Sensar Pro.

wa8yxm ,

Thanks for the instructions..... I think I will see just how different the signal is by adding the wingman... At that point I may decide to start adding boxes and the Sensor pro... I do go to the DTV.gov site and see which way I should be facing my antenna as of now...

FTG, if you do not have a wall plate but rather the Box of Many Buttons.. Let me step aside for a sec.

IN my earlier post I assumed wall plate.. If the Original Poster has a box of many buttons,, THe connections on the back should be labeled, everything else I said applies.

Back to FTD

NORMALLY I say NOTHING between the switch box and the antenna save coax (And a bulkhead connector at the roof, but that's... coax)

The ONLY exception is the Sensar pro

I mounted a standard outlet box in a place where it was convienent, routed the coax from the antenna to that box routed a second coax from the box back to the switch, routed a 3rd coax to the Rear TV compartment (Long run) but you do not need to do that.

My system includes digital converters Front and rear.. The front converter actually is where the "Switch box" antenna lead goes (A splitter may get put in eventually) the 2nd Pro output goes to the rear converter. Bypassing all switches. I used high quality RG-6 cables as is my preference for lower loss.

If you want my full Rube Goldburg Setup, I can describe it for you but for now I will say

3 Televisions, one old CRT, two modern flat screens one doubles as a computer monitor and the other as an MPG player

Two Analog DVRs (from the old days) each controlling a digital converter
One camera
One Sat receiver currently "De-comissioned"
One LAN allowing the DVR's to do the "Record in one room watch in the other or on computer or on tablet or on smart phone" bit (Recall these are old Analog days DVR's and I have been doing it that way for a long time)

And all the cables and wiring to let me play with them any way I want.

What if you do not have a wall plate ?? where would the sensor pro go then ?We have a Winegard entertainment center with the booster built in..

There are many things that can make such a difference, Upgrading (Downgrading in my opinion) to the Jack may improve over all reception but it will not do much for your problem,, And it may in fact make it worse. Depending on the batwing model you have.

Very little beats the basic batwing.
Even less beats the batwing with wingman
Nothing on the market for RV use comes close to the batwing + Wingman + Sensar pro indoor module (This repalces your current wall plate with switch and LED, 12 volt and antenna).

Now to address your problem:

You say the TV near the wall plate works fine, but the other one 10 feet away (TV-2) not so well. Possibilities are:

1: Differences in the two TV. Some are better than others
2: Coax between back side of wall plate and TV-2.
2A: loose connection, at wall plate
2B: Loose connection at TV
2C: Bad coax
2D: Long path run of lowest bidder RG-59 (it may be 10 feet as you travel but what path did they run the wire? I have seen strange answers to that one and I'm not in the RV repair business).

3: Bad wall plate (replace with Sensar Pro)

My guess is one of the 2's however

Or there is a 2E.. Some idiot hooked TV 2 to the wrong jack on the back of that wall plate, The jacks, in order, with 12 volt at the top, looking left to right are

Antenna - Park cable - Tv 2 (Optional TV-3)

On the standard wall plate.. There are a couple of older models that are different however.