Using camper generator to power items in house

I use an approved manual lock out switch that makes it impossible to back feed into the power lines.

I have a puny generator but it does have a 220 outlet. i have no need for 220 when the power is out. So i power the service panel with 220 so that both L1 and L2 get juice.

Before turning the genny on to energize the service panel, i flip all the 220 stuff off. If I had a well I would probably have a bigger genny for back up.

The above precludes gathering up and running a bunch of individual cords around in the house.

oops, i just looked at the OP's title. Maybe he only has 1110 capability.

The proper way is to install a transfer switch on chosen circuits.

Dave H M wrote:
Joe, you are posting warnings with no explanation of what oui are talking about.

suicide cords/rattle snake cords/etc etc. Apples and oranges when it comes to the service panel and the power company.

Tell us how to do it?

"Suicide cord" comes up many many times with a quick google search. It has live prongs on both ends and is inherently dangerous.

As several others have suggested, use extension cords.

I have a backup generator for my house - it uses proper disconnect so it won't backfeed the power lines and electrocute repair workers. My 6KW generator feeds a dozen circuits with proper breakers.

As I mentioned in a previous post, if you're rural and have a well like me, it may be 240V and an RV generator won't work for water. For that, I keep my RV tanks full and can draw from them in an emergency.

Dave H M wrote:
Joe, you are posting warnings with no explanation of what oui are talking about.

suicide cords/rattle snake cords/etc etc. Apples and oranges when it comes to the service panel and the power company.

Tell us how to do it?

Great Question...

What he is cautioning you about (despite most other commenters...) is that if you backfeed to your house without proper, code legal safeguards (meaning an approved Main service panel disconnect), you are creating both a shock hazard for utility workers and a possible fire-arc hazard once the utility power is restored...

Joe, you are posting warnings with no explanation of what oui are talking about.

suicide cords/rattle snake cords/etc etc. Apples and oranges when it comes to the service panel and the power company.

Tell us how to do it?

Two methods. One is run extension cords.. THe other I used (Not the most simple)

I installed some 30 amp outlets in a weather protected (Basement compartment) area on my RV, one twist lock and since I could a pair of TT-30.. Glad I did too.

On the house was a Twist Lock "Inlet" matching the RV. and I custom built an extension cord

IN the house was as proper Generator Transfer Switch

When I came home one New Years and found Frosty the air blown snowman 'Sleeping on the job' (Deflated) I went to basement of house, Got cord, plugged outlet end into inlet, uncoiled as IO walked to RV plugged in to RV, fired up ONAN (After installin Gen-Turi) and then back to basement.

Click and the lights came on
CLick and the Furnace came on
Additional clicks turned on kitchen outlets, more lights, Computer and accessories TV/Radios and such

All that work. Well it was part of a larger electrical upgrade so I paid several hundred dollars (Did the motor home myself)

Warm wife.... As the credit card commercials go.. PRICELESS.

The only problem... RV generator I have is ONLY 120 volts and can not be easily re-wired for 120/240 operation.

Oh, House took about 3500 watts for what I use (Transfer panel has meters) and was amazingly well balanced.

Do not try to back feed your house with a 'suicide cord'. It's very dangerous to power workers.

My house requires 240v for the water pump.

Dave H M wrote:
if you have a square D service panel they market a lock out switch to enable you to power up the whole service.

I believe you can buy a Generator Interlock for just about all breaker boxes, not just Square D.

Keep exhaust away from the house but otherwise individual appliances are easy with extension cords.

If you do a whole house connection, a lot depends on the size of the generator and the loads. Probably won't handle your average household heat pump system.

I have an external portable generator that came with one of our previous campers. Never used it actually camping, but have used it a lot at the house for power outages. I run 2 cords through a window with multiple plugs on the end. One line goes to the refrigerator and freezer. I switch these ever couple hours. One line goes to the blower for our fireplace blower (we heat with firewood and electric ceiling heat). One line goes to our internet router and modem, another line for our cell phones and computers, and one line for the television.

If it's summer, then one line is dedicated to our primary sub-pump, and something in the house just has to go. We don't necessarily have to keep the refrigerator / and / or freezer plugged in all the time. It takes several hours before they really need to be plugged back in.

Yes, we have orange heavy gauge extension cords strung all over the house, but it works well for us.

Every summer, we can anticipate the power going out at least 3 times and in the winter, at least twice. So, I keep my generator running healthy.