Forum Discussion
BFL13
Dec 30, 2017Explorer II
The slides and jacks would have their own wires to the house batts while the converter has another set. The converter needs a path to the slides and jacks to run them--normally where they meet at the battery posts. If you remove the batts, the converter wires do not join with the slide and jack wires unless you put them together with clamps.
The converter should be able to run the slides and jacks based on the converter's amp rating, but it may be a long way on thin wire in a particular rig so there is a voltage drop.
Our 5er with a 13 ft electric slide had no problem at all doing it with no battery and a basic Parallax 7355 amp converter on "miles" of #6 and some #8. Trimetric showed about 25 amps peak going in or out over the hump with the converter doing all the work. Lippert spec is for a 30 amp fuse, so that came out right.
I suspect many rigs that have a notice saying you need the battery is just so the converter wire and slide wire do touch each other (on the battery post)
However, there are many rigs--- so best not to say they all can do it.
The converter should be able to run the slides and jacks based on the converter's amp rating, but it may be a long way on thin wire in a particular rig so there is a voltage drop.
Our 5er with a 13 ft electric slide had no problem at all doing it with no battery and a basic Parallax 7355 amp converter on "miles" of #6 and some #8. Trimetric showed about 25 amps peak going in or out over the hump with the converter doing all the work. Lippert spec is for a 30 amp fuse, so that came out right.
I suspect many rigs that have a notice saying you need the battery is just so the converter wire and slide wire do touch each other (on the battery post)
However, there are many rigs--- so best not to say they all can do it.
About Technical Issues
Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,369 PostsLatest Activity: Mar 11, 2026