Using TT in sub-freezing temps/elect. What's required?

So how much in propane is it worth to you to risk freezing the pipes? If it was me, I'd be running the furnace and hoping to high heaven that that is sufficient enough to keep the pipes from freezing.

After that depending on how bad it gets, it may be straw bales around the perimeter and a heater or two underneath.

YOMV

How cold is cold? 25F at sunrise and most RVs are just fine running the furnace. Much below that you will need to start adding electric heaters to any exposed tanks and pipes. At some point pipes in the walls and floor may start to have freeze ups with additional measures needed or you can winterize and use bottled water. Your furnace could be running near continuous so an extra cylinder or two of propane may help along with an electric space heater. Also need to add heat to the outside fridge compartment to keep the system working.

Second Chance wrote:
If you want to go all-electric with your main furnace and keep the basement thawed, this is the way to go:

Cheap Heat

The installation is pricey, but lots of full-timers swear by them. We have weathered stretches of single-digit lows and sub-freezing highs for a week or two at a time (often with 40 MPH winds) on propane heat. We supplement with the electric fireplace and put a ceramic heater on a thermostat in the basement to help, but always make sure the main furnace is cycling. At the worst, we've gone through 30 lbs. of propane in about 3 days.

We use a heated water hose but fill up the fresh tank, disconnect the water and use the pump on the coldest of nights. I wait until sunny afternoons to drain the waste tanks so the stinky slinky doesn't freeze up, too. Reflectix cut to fit in the windows helps if you don't have dual pane windows.

Rob

Wow thanks, for that price I might as well go that route - I have a decent background in electrical work so it doesn't sound too scary, though tearing everything apart and pulling the wires is always the worst part.

It was unclear if you used that system or just the propane w/ ceramic underneath?

Sounds like either way, the key is to have the ducting in the basement carrying heat in some capacity.
edit: Ouch I was looking at the wrong one, not the add-on unit I need haha.

downtheroad wrote:
Not sure why you don't use your furnace also...but if you are going to only use a stand alone electric heater inside....could you get another one and place it underneath blowing heat to help keep your plumbing from freezing..

Yeah it just might be an extended period of time, and was thinking about avoiding the propane cost / lugging the cylinders around is all.

Not sure why you don't use your furnace also...but if you are going to only use a stand alone electric heater inside....could you get another one and place it underneath blowing heat to help keep your plumbing from freezing..

If you want to go all-electric with your main furnace and keep the basement thawed, this is the way to go:

Cheap Heat

The installation is pricey, but lots of full-timers swear by them. We have weathered stretches of single-digit lows and sub-freezing highs for a week or two at a time (often with 40 MPH winds) on propane heat. We supplement with the electric fireplace and put a ceramic heater on a thermostat in the basement to help, but always make sure the main furnace is cycling. At the worst, we've gone through 30 lbs. of propane in about 3 days.

We use a heated water hose but fill up the fresh tank, disconnect the water and use the pump on the coldest of nights. I wait until sunny afternoons to drain the waste tanks so the stinky slinky doesn't freeze up, too. Reflectix cut to fit in the windows helps if you don't have dual pane windows.

Rob

IF you have 'electric' available then just RUN the propane furnace and use the available electric to maintain/charge batteries...converter is going to be working anyway for DC System use

Living in sub-freezing temps is daunting enough w/o creating other issues