MEXICOWANDERER
Oct 27, 2017Explorer
Wall Wart Efficiency? Dealing With Interpretations. WuuWee
I made the mistake of trying to trace this down. Accessing US government regulations. Boy was that ever a mistake.
https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2014/02/10/2014-02560/energy-conservation-program-energy-conservation-standards-for-external-power-supplies
Objective: Making my own custom LED night lights. I -could- use a dedicated LED driver but the temptation to series 10mm white LEDs is strong. Four 20ma devices. Or one solitary. Or two...whatever the job demands.
Rather than try and justify a timer or photoelectric switch, I would rather leave the device enabled. Yes, I am aware of zero crossing points and reverse biasing with a 2nd LED and current control with a 300 volt capacitor and resistor. Is that -really- the optimum reliable/efficient way to go?
Discussion and opinions very welcome.
The night lights are intended for floor molding lighting that is similar to what movie theaters use. Some will be AC powered. A few will be battery enabled (with a switch).
I accumulated six failures with photoelectric. Five on DC and one using AC. I would really rather not use a photocell unless I can find one that is discrete sized and reliable.
Nevertheless - powering the LEDs is open for discussion.
https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2014/02/10/2014-02560/energy-conservation-program-energy-conservation-standards-for-external-power-supplies
Objective: Making my own custom LED night lights. I -could- use a dedicated LED driver but the temptation to series 10mm white LEDs is strong. Four 20ma devices. Or one solitary. Or two...whatever the job demands.
Rather than try and justify a timer or photoelectric switch, I would rather leave the device enabled. Yes, I am aware of zero crossing points and reverse biasing with a 2nd LED and current control with a 300 volt capacitor and resistor. Is that -really- the optimum reliable/efficient way to go?
Discussion and opinions very welcome.
The night lights are intended for floor molding lighting that is similar to what movie theaters use. Some will be AC powered. A few will be battery enabled (with a switch).
I accumulated six failures with photoelectric. Five on DC and one using AC. I would really rather not use a photocell unless I can find one that is discrete sized and reliable.
Nevertheless - powering the LEDs is open for discussion.