Water heater check valve question

Well I got the guts out after much anguish, using a drill with various bits, tiny needle nose pliars, forceps, and a paint can opener. The white plastic valve and stem broke loose and came out, and the spring is in the tank.
Hopefully there are no other parts that might float, and the spring will live happily ever after at the bottom of the tank.
My plan now is to put a female thread PEX connector to the male threads of the check valve housing. Then add a shutoff valve to that.
I'll also have to put an elbow before the shutoff , since I don't think I have the space to put it right after the initial connection.
Since I live so far from any place that sells the fittings and PEX, it will be a while before I get it all back together, but when I do and it hopefully all works good, I'll report back.

Jack L

I'm having the same problem. Mine is a brass valve and have not been able to break it loose. Waiting for warmer weather to work on it. May have to remove water heater to fix it.

I can get a deep wall socket on it. Been thinking about trying an air impact wrench on it but don't know if that will damage the tank. Impact wrench may stress the tank less than using a big wrench.

Anyone try that? What do you think?

Just replaced my check valve on a Suburban 12 gal tank about a month ago. I knew the valve was bad because when I tried to winterize it, it was letting the pink anti freeze back into the tank, and that is what the check valve is suppose to stop. When I got to Florida for the winter, I was not going to change it but it made a noise like a motor running when you turned on the hot water spigot with the tank full of hot water or the tank full of cold water, didn't matter.
The valve as you say is very hard to remove. Mine was in a place that was very hard to get to. I finally got it out with a deep end socket on a half inch drive. Had to hold the tank in place with one arm and hand and use the ratchet with the other. Replace with the same brass valve from Aqua Pro #27916.
I still have the noise although somewhat not as loud. I have no clue what is making the noise. The tank is in an 09 5th wheel, so it is not like it is in an older unit. I had no noise before and just assumed since the antifreeze was getting into the tank the valve was bad and causing the noise. Guess I will just have to learn to live with the noise or get a new tank....... The heater works good on either gas or electric.

Golden_HVAC wrote:
Hi,

I would leave the valve in place, and install a second check valve in a convenient location. To bad to find that out after spending a hour to get the darn water heater out of the RV. Yet it will help me to know that in advance.

A swing check valve that is mounted so that closed is down, and the arrow on the side points straight up will make sure it closes the best - even under low back pressure.

Fred.

OP has the same problem I had with mine, a noisy check valve which sang a horrible note when hot water is drawn.

The only fix is to remove or if very lucky remove the offending internal parts..

My vote is to remove the valve which is going to require removing the insulation so you can get a pipe wrench close to the tank..

Breaking out the internal parts is a risky idea which may leave broken plastic bits in the tank..

If the valve body breaks of then OP can use the internal pipe extractor I posted to remove the leftover pipe stuck in the tank threads.

The key here is getting a pipe wrench as close as possible to the tank which should reduce the off chance of breaking the valve body.

Your suggestion of a swing valve is dead on, I installed mine on the floor and used a short piece of Pex from the valve to the tank.

No more screaming check valve.. Priceless :D

Hi,

I would leave the valve in place, and install a second check valve in a convenient location. To bad to find that out after spending a hour to get the darn water heater out of the RV. Yet it will help me to know that in advance.

A swing check valve that is mounted so that closed is down, and the arrow on the side points straight up will make sure it closes the best - even under low back pressure.

Fred.

NanciL wrote:
When I look into it, I can see what looks like a white nylon ring, and I am wondering if I can some how get some small needle noise pliars on and pull it out.

Short answer YES.

Longer answer: A few years ago a couple of women in the campground where I was camping were complaining of water heater problems.. Rather clear that was the problem, stuck/clogged check valve.

I told them about the valve, lead them to some internet links, and the mother (mother/daughter pair) used her needle nose pliers to gut the valve,, They were very happy to once again be in Hot Water.

Yup, sometimes being in hot water is a good thing. (like when doing dishes or taking a shower).

Any one else want to chime in ?
Do I or don't I try to break/pull the darn thing out?

jack L

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Should be a plastic clip that holds the check valve internals (spring/plunger) in place.

With needle nose pliers you remove clip and then pull the check valve out of nipple.

OR take a screw driver and break it up then pull the pieces out

If you remove the clip, wouldn't the spring loaded valve launch it's self INTO the tank?

It has been a while since I replaced the check valve on my water heater But if I remember correctly the large part of the plastic plunger (center portion) of the valve was facing the tank. A spring pulled the plunger against the seat and the clip you mentioned kept the plunger from jumping into the tank due to the spring pressure.

The housing should be plastic and is removable, the problem is getting to the outside of this rascal since the body of the valve will be recessed in the insulation. Depending on the brand of water heater you can remove the insulation to get to the valve body easier.

If it is a Atwood the tank is aluminum and the insulation is a two piece molded foam. If you have enough space you can remove the strap around the foam and pull up the foam top. If not you will need to remove the water heater from your RV and strip top and bottom off.

Suburban uses fiberglass insulation with a card board like outside cover.. This one you could carefully cut the cardboard from the back, remove the insulation and get to the fitting. When done put insulation back and use aluminum HVAC tape to hold the cardboard in place.

Even if you break it off you should be able to use an INTERNAL PIPE extractor designed for plumbing to remove the portion left inside the fitting..

SEE HERE

I replaced mine with a brass swing type check valve, no more noise.

Should be a plastic clip that holds the check valve internals (spring/plunger) in place.

With needle nose pliers you remove clip and then pull the check valve out of nipple.

OR take a screw driver and break it up then pull the pieces out

I had to change the plastic check valve on the back of my water heater because it was leaking. I don't remember any problem removing it but my unit was less than a year old. I just turned it out with a wrench. There was also a fitting that connected the pex to the valve. However yours may be different.