I noticed today the pressure release valve on my water heater has a very slow drip. How often should that valve be replaced and is now the time. Doesn't seem like a complicated job any precautions that should be taken? What is the life expectancy of a water heater? Coach is 10 years old. Should the heater be replaced at a predetermined age or just wait for it to burn out? There is certainly a fair amount of rust at the drain plug.

Replace only as needed and you need a new one. Typically the T&P safety valve is a bit smaller than a home unit so you may need to order one as Home Depot probably does not have it.Precautions? Let the water heater cool overnight, turn off water supply, and verify no hot water pressure before you unscrew the valve.I also recommend a small expansion tank to reduce pressure issues. Shurflo makes one for RVs.

It is not uncommon for the pressure release valve to "weep." The weeping occurs when the air gap at the top of the tank is lost.If this is your problem, it can be corrected by the following steps, when the water in the tank is cold.Turn off the water supply (pump or city water).Open a faucet to release pressure.Pull the handle on the valve straight out.When the water quits flowing, let the handle snap shutClose the faucet and turn on the water supply.I don't know that this is your problem, but should be checked before replacing the valve.Tom

Might not be the valve.. Before you go tossing money at it try this procedure.1: turn off heater.. Wait as long as you can.2: Shut off water to heater, Either use the bypass system or turn off water to the RV (Both city and on-board pumps).3: Remove drain, NOTE: I like to pipe the flow out past the side wall of the RV.CAUTION hot water under pressure4: Open TPR (the Release valve) to increase outflow.5: When outflow stops, close TPR and replace Drain plug, IF SURBURAN or other anode using heater inspect anode while you have it out and if in need of a new one, Now is the best time.6: Restore water flow to heater and let fill.7 REstart heaterNow see if it still leaks.Water heater is also an acumulator tank and over time the air cushion is absorbed into the water and vanishes, leading to leakage at the TPR as the water heats, due to overpressure .

Like pulsar and wa8yxm said....re-establish the air trap.

Subject gets beat to death.Dripping relief valve

water heater leakin pressure release valve | Good Sam Community

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 25, 2014
jbrad13 wrote:
Check your water heater operators manual. See what is says about a weeping pressure release valve.

BOTH (Suburban & Atwood) will have info on air pocket and weeping relief valve
jbrad13
Explorer
Dec 25, 2014
Check your water heater operators manual. See what is says about a weeping pressure release valve.
larry_barnhart
Explorer
Dec 25, 2014
I do the air chamber deal but after the winter 2 seasons ago the relief valve was dripping. At home I removed it and soaked it in vinegar for a couple of days. It looked new again and is still doing a good job and will soon be 14 years old.

I soak the entire plumbing system in vinegar each summer for 2 days and drain and rinse the water lines.
chevman
racer4
Explorer
Dec 23, 2014
I was surprised how easy my 16 year old T&P valve came out. I barely got the pipe wrench seated on the valve and it moved. My first thought was the wrench slipped, then I realized the valve was moving.

Very easy job.

My valve was different size than what the hardware store had. Get the number on the valve and google it. I found a Camco valve that matched and was available at the local RV shop and online.

If the sheet metal for the exhaust heat is in the way of the wrench, it is easy to remove.
MR_MAC
Explorer
Dec 23, 2014
Cool Canuck wrote:
RJsfishin wrote:
Ironically, mine has dripped for a year or more. A week ago it got drastically worse. So I opened and closed it a few times, and it got worse yet, pumping water out like an open faucet !
I couldn't even imagine taking a pipe wrench to a 13 yr old heater, so I tefelon taped a 3/4" PVC plug and screwed it into the opening. Not leaking a drop,....and I have this feeling it will stay that way, unless I decide to somehow connect a new one to the old one.
That should start some conversation.

I would get that plug out quick, or you will be replacing the water heater, and repairing the damage done to your rig, and could be human
damage also. also do NOT put a new relif valve into the old one, the PVC plug may blow out but two valve will blow up. Ive seen this happen several times.
Dusty_R
Explorer
Dec 22, 2014
I've had the bladder go out 3 times in my home water system.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Dec 22, 2014
RJsfishin wrote:
God,.....don't panic ok ?? I forgot to mention that I have a shure-flo bladder tank in the system, JUST AS EVERY SYSTEM SHOULD HAVE !!
I am settled in for a couple months, and not about to twist a bung out of the 13 yr old tank, and then what ???

That's great- instead of the water heater tank blowing the plastic bladder can blow- no doubt in a much better place to be inundated with boiling water.
Removing the T&P valve is trivial- I have never had any problem on tanks up to 30 years old (actually, never had a problem with *any* tank- just don't see too many that old).
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 22, 2014
RJsfishin wrote:
God,.....don't panic ok ?? I forgot to mention that I have a shure-flo bladder tank in the system, JUST AS EVERY SYSTEM SHOULD HAVE !!
I am settled in for a couple months, and not about to twist a bung out of the 13 yr old tank, and then what ???

Oh yeah...that makes it better :S
RJsfishin
Explorer
Dec 22, 2014
God,.....don't panic ok ?? I forgot to mention that I have a shure-flo bladder tank in the system, JUST AS EVERY SYSTEM SHOULD HAVE !!
I am settled in for a couple months, and not about to twist a bung out of the 13 yr old tank, and then what ???
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 22, 2014
RJsfishin wrote:
Ironically, mine has dripped for a year or more. A week ago it got drastically worse. So I opened and closed it a few times, and it got worse yet, pumping water out like an open faucet !
I couldn't even imagine taking a pipe wrench to a 13 yr old heater, so I tefelon taped a 3/4" PVC plug and screwed it into the opening. Not leaking a drop,....and I have this feeling it will stay that way, unless I decide to somehow connect a new one to the old one.

Two issues:

First......doing what you have done. Water heaters have safety devices for a very good reason. Normal t-stat to control heating/operation, a higher temp t-stat as a backup to normal and then the T&P as a final safety device.
I operated boilers for a living, steam will KILL. A overheated/over-pressurized water heater WILL explode.

Please for your safety, your families safety and those that are innocent bystanders safety.............DO NOT CAP THE T&P.
If too afraid of replacing..let it drip.

Second......posting the idea of capping off the T&P is wrong and should NOT be suggested either directly OR indirectly.
This is NOT something to mess around with.