Water Heater Troubleshoot

Thank you all for your input on the heater and the picture posting. Sounds like I need to have a service man check it and fix it so we dont burn up.

G and D wrote:
Gotsmart

Howd you do that?

This is the RV.Net Tutorials and Picture related FAQ's in the Technical Support forum:
http://forums.goodsamclub.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/15775751.cfm

Scroll down to the link for: Posting Pictures Using TinyPic.Com For The Host Site:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/21974614/p/1.cfm

Man- do not use that thing- it has been seriously jury rigged, and appears to have no safeties on it at all. The electrode is hooked to a reignitor (the black box).
Really- unhook it, shut to propane, and have it repaired correctly by someone who knows what to do.

Old Biscuit

Thanks for the explanation. I will check that this weekend. How are you getting my pics to show up. I cant seem to find the magic.

Thanks much

docnascar wrote:

G and D wrote:
...checked a couple of hours later it had shut off. I tried to relight but it wouldnt fire up.

Just checking and maybe I'm reading what you posted wrong, but you do know that the flame does not stay lit the entire time the system is on, right? It does go off after the water gets to the correct temp.

I'm not sure if my HW tank (Suburban) will light again if I shut it down and turn it back on while the water is HOT and at the correct temperature. (I'll have to try this one day) It takes a long while for it to cool down if your not using the water.

Agree with what others said. Your HW tank appears to be modified and does not appear to be OEM.

No it will not relite IF t-stat has opened (reached temp setting).
Temp has too cool enough for t-stat to reclose (roughly 110*F)

BUT if it stopped before t-stat temp set point......bad t-stat, dirty electrode, bad spark electrode wire/cracked ceramic, blocked combustion/exhaust chamber, bad ground connections, faulty gas valve or solenoid(s).

OP needs to clean up burner assembly, combustion/exhaust chamber, ground wires and trace the 12V DC power.

G and D wrote:
...checked a couple of hours later it had shut off. I tried to relight but it wouldnt fire up.

Just checking and maybe I'm reading what you posted wrong, but you do know that the flame does not stay lit the entire time the system is on, right? It does go off after the water gets to the correct temp.

I'm not sure if my HW tank (Suburban) will light again if I shut it down and turn it back on while the water is HOT and at the correct temperature. (I'll have to try this one day) It takes a long while for it to cool down if your not using the water.

Agree with what others said. Your HW tank appears to be modified and does not appear to be OEM.

In your photo (bottom) a 'spark controller' has been added in outside compartment (right of gas valve)......that is not OEM

So you will need to get out a digital volt meter, trace out the wiring and check for 12V DC power.

Power would come from ON/Off switch to t-stats (high then normal) then to control module. From module power would then go to spark electrode and to gas valve solenoids (for 6-8 sec. while sparking)

When gas lites off a millivolt signal via sprak electrode wire is sent back to module to keep power on gas valve solenoids until temp is reached (130*F for normal t-stat)

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clicked on img code url and then picture icon in advanced posts but this is all I get

Old Biscuit

I watched it run for a few minutes 2-3 and left it so I dont know how long it ran before crapping out. Ill recheck all connections and check to see if its 12 v dc.

Ill try pics again also

That rubber boot originally went to the spark electrode on burner (someone changed out...see red wire attached inside burner tube)

You stated you had it running..lit off, good blue flame and then it shutdown...
Did it run long enough to get water warm?

See if t-stat has tripped (reset by pushing in on rubber buttons).

Is this an LP only water heater...no electric?
Need good 12V DC power and good grounds. So clean tighten any ground wires and check that connections are clean tight on power wires.

Your ON/OFF switch may be located next to monitor panel BUT the control board & wiring junction box for water heater is on the side of water heater.....access from inside rig.
You need to locate them and check wiring and also fr 12V DC power.

Pic's can only be uploaded from a public photo website (like tinypics).

Using the 'advanced post form' click on yellow icon that looks like mountains with sun (image)and then paste link from photo site.