water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open

Timeking wrote:
Further screwing with this thing reveals that sometimes the gas valve opens but the spark don't spark, while other time the sparker sparks but the gas valve doesn't open. One fireball, luckily with the door open, is enough for me to get a qualified repairman.

These details suggest circuit board valve track is issue

Timeking wrote:
"The RETURN millivolt signal for flame is NOT that strong and will be disrupted by a slight short to ground." Return signal? Are you saying that the Suburban design uses the spark apparatus as double duty for whether or not the flame lit? If true, that seems dumb.

There does not appear to be any damage to the orange wire, looks new. The connection to the lug is shiny and clean.

As suggested, I cleaned the burner tube. The air-gas mixture is fixed, not adjustable.

Not only does Suburban but also Atwood/Dometic, Norcold for water heaters, fridges, furnaces etc

And it is VERY Smart technology
When the Flame ignites ti creates a current (Flame Rectification)
Flame generated AC Current is rectified into a DC Current which the circuit board senses via the milliamp signal thru the Spark Electrode.
All this takes place w/o further devices/equipment/sensors and happens within seconds of gas valve opening/spark electrode firing
No flame proving signal....circuit board shuts down DC to gas valve---hence no excess raw fuel

Timeking wrote:
........ If true, that seems dumb.
...........

But not uncommon. I’ve had several gas appliances that also use the igniter for flame detection. I’m guessing $$ has something to do with it. :W

:):)

Further screwing with this thing reveals that sometimes the gas valve opens but the spark don't spark, while other time the sparker sparks but the gas valve doesn't open. One fireball, luckily with the door open, is enough for me to get a qualified repairman.

"The RETURN millivolt signal for flame is NOT that strong and will be disrupted by a slight short to ground." Return signal? Are you saying that the Suburban design uses the spark apparatus as double duty for whether or not the flame lit? If true, that seems dumb.

There does not appear to be any damage to the orange wire, looks new. The connection to the lug is shiny and clean.

As suggested, I cleaned the burner tube. The air-gas mixture is fixed, not adjustable.

what color is the flame when you have the door open. I was having this issue also because I had it adjusted to lean and when I closed the door it would go out. then some one told me to adjust it so it was just flickering yellow when the door was open and its has been good since. but pinching a wire would do it also if there are any wires that can be pinched when you close the door. there isnt in mine.

Steve

Can’t wait for Saddlebag Lake to open. It’s over 10,000.

profdant139 wrote:
I have the same problem, but only over 9000 feet! I think it must be an airflow issue. It is solved when I open the outside door.

Highest point in FL is the Skybridge

I have the same problem, but only over 9000 feet! I think it must be an airflow issue. It is solved when I open the outside door.

As Doug explained...flame proving is being lost due to short to ground

Reposition Large Orange wire....tape it....make sure it isn't making contact

Then you should be able to close door and have LP System function as designed