Starting a new thread since the other one is overloaded with negative responses.What are some good surge protectors and ways I can check for electrical damage to inside appliances related to power surges and power overloads?Is there a way I can use a voltage meter to check each appliance individually? I am installing a new power converter today and plan on checking each wall socket for proper power levels. I'm also going to run each appliance 24/7 as I will be living in the camper for an extended length of time.If there is anything not functioning today, I am going to call my insurance agency and open a claim. I spoke with them yesterday and had a note added to my account so if anything electrical stops working in the next week, I can still open a claim if needed.

xnizstudio wrote:What are some good surge protectors and ways I can check for electrical damage to inside appliances related to power surges and power overloads?Is there a way I can use a voltage meter to check each appliance individually? I am installing a new power converter today and plan on checking each wall socket for proper power levels. I'm also going to run each appliance 24/7 as I will be living in the camper for an extended length of time.Power "surges" are rare and usually come from lightening strikes or a fallen utility line. There isn't any way to really protect from lightening, the best thing is to unplug till the storm has passed.Overloads are prevented by the circuit breakers already installed. There are some good protectors, basically the more you pay, the better they are. Many here recommend those from Progressive.A voltmeter will do nothing to test an appliance, other than verify it is supplied with the correct voltage.Your 24/7 test is as good as any.

Another example of why I hardly ever “plug in.”

xnizstudio,Most of the damage to motor driven devices is caused by low voltage. My comfort level is nothing below 108 volts.Unfortunately the top of the line 'surge' devices do not disconnect until 103.5 and 104 volts.A clamp on ammeter may be able to detect damage by showing higher than normal amperage draws. But unless there is a "base line" measurement prior to the partial failure it may not be definitive.Some of us believe in correcting low voltage, rather than sweltering in the heat from a disconnect, by using an autoformer.I do have surge in place--but it was purpose built for me. It won't protect the unit from a lightning strike, but should take care of fluctuations at campgrounds due to other RV's cycling their air conditioners on and off.The best practice may be to check polarity and voltage under load before plugging in the RV. I do this every time before I plug into a new source, using an adapter, polarity device, kill-a-watt meter, and hair drier.

A qualified service person may be able to open up an appliance and check that internal voltages are correct. But that requires specific knowledge and troubleshooting procedures for each appliance. Otherwise the only way to test an appliance is to turn it on and see if it works or not. And even if it works there is no guarantee that some part has not been weakened for later failure.

This will help for a surge protector:What is the best surge protector for my RV?Unfortunately, I don’t have any idea how to test appliances.

Ways to test for electrical damage | Good Sam Community

12 Replies

Lynnmor
Explorer
Aug 27, 2019
enblethen wrote:
Most convential RV refers require 12 volts DC for control

Yes, just to be clear, connecting only the 120 volt plug will not work.
enblethen
Nomad
Aug 27, 2019
Most convential RV refers require 12 volts DC for control
DrewE
Explorer II
Aug 27, 2019
DutchmenSport wrote:
xnizstudio wrote:
...
I wanted to run an extension cord to test the refrigerator but I'm not even sure how I would go about doing that as the refrigerator is mounted and secured. ...

My bad. I now have an all electric residential refrigerator and have forgotten, ever so quickly, about RV refrigerators. If your's is a traditional gas/electric refrigerator, if you pull the outside panel offs, is there a plug for the electric half of the unit? I remember one of my previous TT's had an actual plug.

Typically, yes, so far as I know. There's an outlet in the fridge compartment and the fridge plugs into it. Usually it would be accessible by removing the lower outside vent panel.
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Aug 27, 2019
xnizstudio wrote:
...
I wanted to run an extension cord to test the refrigerator but I'm not even sure how I would go about doing that as the refrigerator is mounted and secured. ...

My bad. I now have an all electric residential refrigerator and have forgotten, ever so quickly, about RV refrigerators. If your's is a traditional gas/electric refrigerator, if you pull the outside panel offs, is there a plug for the electric half of the unit? I remember one of my previous TT's had an actual plug.
time2roll
Nomad
Aug 27, 2019
I have a 30 amp hardwired Progressive Industries EMS with full protection. If you get the remote... it does blink constantly as it scrolls through the data so mount it a bit out of direct vision.

Has found everything on the list. High voltage, low voltage, bad ground, reverse polarity.
xnizstudio
Explorer
Aug 27, 2019
DutchmenSport wrote:
Pretty much as Lynmor said. If the appliance is running and working correctly, then there's nothing wrong with it. You could run an independent extension cord into the camper and plug each item in individually and make sure everything is running as expected. Then plug in your camper and with a volt meter, check each outlet. If the volts are correct, that's pretty much all you can do.

Progressive makes dependable and reliable surge protectors - EMS power watchers.

I plan on installing the new converter today. I want to test each wall socket voltage before plugging things back into the wall outlets.

Aside from that, I just have my fingers crossed that everything is still going to work after the "accident".

I wanted to run an extension cord to test the refrigerator but I'm not even sure how I would go about doing that as the refrigerator is mounted and secured.

Im only worried about damage to the refrigerator, AC and hot water heater
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Aug 27, 2019
Pretty much as Lynmor said. If the appliance is running and working correctly, then there's nothing wrong with it. You could run an independent extension cord into the camper and plug each item in individually and make sure everything is running as expected. Then plug in your camper and with a volt meter, check each outlet. If the volts are correct, that's pretty much all you can do.

Progressive makes dependable and reliable surge protectors - EMS power watchers.
ependydad
Explorer
Aug 27, 2019
This will help for a surge protector:
What is the best surge protector for my RV?

Unfortunately, I don’t have any idea how to test appliances.
BB_TX
Nomad
Aug 27, 2019
A qualified service person may be able to open up an appliance and check that internal voltages are correct. But that requires specific knowledge and troubleshooting procedures for each appliance.
Otherwise the only way to test an appliance is to turn it on and see if it works or not. And even if it works there is no guarantee that some part has not been weakened for later failure.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Aug 27, 2019
xnizstudio,

Most of the damage to motor driven devices is caused by low voltage. My comfort level is nothing below 108 volts.

Unfortunately the top of the line 'surge' devices do not disconnect until 103.5 and 104 volts.

A clamp on ammeter may be able to detect damage by showing higher than normal amperage draws. But unless there is a "base line" measurement prior to the partial failure it may not be definitive.

Some of us believe in correcting low voltage, rather than sweltering in the heat from a disconnect, by using an autoformer.

I do have surge in place--but it was purpose built for me. It won't protect the unit from a lightning strike, but should take care of fluctuations at campgrounds due to other RV's cycling their air conditioners on and off.

The best practice may be to check polarity and voltage under load before plugging in the RV. I do this every time before I plug into a new source, using an adapter, polarity device, kill-a-watt meter, and hair drier.