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sotaman
Explorer
Jan 16, 2018

Weekend Warrior Solar Question

Hello this is my first post. We have a 14 Rockwood ultra lite. It is plumbed for the Zamp solar power. I have looked at it and found it to be very expensive. I would like an all up kit to keep my battery charged enough to keep my fridge cold well we are away for the week. So battery clips a big enough panel to keep the battery charged and fridge running hopefully don't have to unhook if I am running generators, and something that is mountable on a stake that I can just leave out. Because if you have ever been to North Dakota you know it can be very windy. Please share your recommendations and if possible a link with pros and cons to your recommendation.

Thank you
Trent

10 Replies

  • In 2014 I went to Churchill MB via train. The RV was left for 8 days at a storage yard. With 256 watts of solar I came home to a fully charged battery bank while the fridge was left running on propane.
  • Good idea to leave the LP alarm alive when running the fridge on propane.

    Did three days away from 5er with fridge left on and with no solar. Trimetric said 51 AH used while away. So 17 AH per day. Was 80F mid-day temps.

    Park with the fridge side of the rig to the North. Put the portable solar up on the roof with the wires hanging down to the battery. That way the solar is more likely to still be there after you get back :(
  • sotaman wrote:
    I mean how much power would a fridge draw from the battery once its cold?


    red31 wrote:
    The consensus seems to be ~20ah a day for fridge and propane/co detectors, ymmv.


    To the OP ...

    Do yourself a huge favour and learn what in your trailer is drawing down your battery reserve and of those which ones you can get along without. The biggest will be your fridge climate control heating element which is designed to minimize frost build up around the freezer. Nice when you have shore power available but something you can get along without when you don't, the problem being some fridges now offer no way to turn this 12 vdc heating element off. My own Dometic DM2652 is one of them so I added my own switch. If your fridge was installed with a thermostatically controlled cooling fan then that too will draw down the battery so if yours has one you'd want to determine if it's absolutely necessary or whether you could add a kill switch to it for those cooler times you may be camping and can get along without the fan running. Since you'll be using the camper at the time you wouldn't want to disconnect the propane/CO detector but be aware it too is constantly drawing down the battery, probably at least 50 ma per hour, 1.2 amps per 24 hrs, but that's surprisingly 8.4 amps over the course of a week. :E

    I also added kill switches to the radio and my SensarPro television signal preamplifier. You likely have a conventional non-amplified television wall plate, in which case you'd want to make sure it's turned off, along with disconnecting the television from it's power source as well. It ALL counts - minimize your draw down on the battery by eliminating those items you can live without, conserve what battery reserve you do have to power only those items that must be powered, and your solar needs will obviously be lowered as well.
  • sotaman wrote:

    I mean how much power would a fridge draw from the battery once its cold?


    The consensus seems to be ~20ah a day for fridge and propane/co detectors, ymmv.
  • Duty cycle on the absorption fridge is 2:3 so they draw power for 40 minutes out of every hour.

    sotaman wrote:
    I mean how much power would a fridge draw from the battery once its cold?
  • red31 wrote:
    [url]https://www.solarblvd.com/products/solar-cynergy-160-watt-foldable-12-volt-solar-panel-2/

    cons, out of stock, shipping, may need to provide own wire/clips.


    How about this https://www.mrsolar.com/solarland-slck-020-12-portable-battery-charging-kit/

    I mean how much power would a fridge draw from the battery once its cold?
  • Some considerations...

    • Size is important here. It means going with poly crystal which is both more efficient in size and more expensive
    • Less area for wind force. Clad the rear of the panel to reinforce it
    • A pair of 1-1/2" 1/4" wall square steel tubing posts can withstand the bend pressure of many hundreds of pounds 4' off the ground. Another option is a concrete pillar
    • The panel will be fixed, so you need to find out the optimum angle. This might save you money as a horizontal laid panel offers this feature with minimal wind area
    • 200-250 watts is plenty for the tasks you described. An MPPT controller would go with the panel
    • You need to project any ideas about possible future array growth before you choose a controller -- they are not cheap.
  • Hi,

    Mount 200 watts on the roof with a 40 amp Grape Solar controller.
  • "So battery clips a big enough panel to keep the battery charged and fridge running hopefully"

    Few RVers have enough batteries and solar panels to run their fridge on electricity. Solar is better suited to running the fridge on propane and everything else except the AC and microwave.

    WindyNation, Renology and others make good RV solar systems. I believe in roof mounted panels, not portables. Others disagree.

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