weekend warrior issues

havasuduner wrote:
Well as a quick reply, I finished welding and put it back on the ground. Went inside to do the jump test, I can't see the walls going down at all when I jump, but instead I see them bowing OUT at the wheel wells. We looked outside where we braced the wheel wells and our braces aren't moving at ALL!! So I am unsure what is really going on now. I put about 10 new outriggers underneath and ran a new cross member at the front axle. Calling all people who have had Socal do your trailer, if you do the jump test, do your walls not bow out at all???

No, mine does not bow out or in at all,,, none. Rock solid. Couldn't believe the difference when they finished the frame/walls update. Feels like I've got a dozen stabilizer jacks all down hard its so solid. Walls are now like the rock of Gibraltar...

Like I told you earlier, iirr SCal RV DR added 6 crossmembers plus all the other frame upgrades and wall enhancements. And You added 1 crossmember...?

When they were doing mine, did get to see it at various stages of the frame/wall updates. They did say every unit is a little different in what it needs...

Good luck, keep adding metal and wood, you'll get it eventually.

jmo

Anyone out there??

Well as a quick reply, I finished welding and put it back on the ground. Went inside to do the jump test, I can't see the walls going down at all when I jump, but instead I see them bowing OUT at the wheel wells. We looked outside where we braced the wheel wells and our braces aren't moving at ALL!! So I am unsure what is really going on now. I put about 10 new outriggers underneath and ran a new cross member at the front axle. Calling all people who have had Socal do your trailer, if you do the jump test, do your walls not bow out at all???

Milkman670 wrote:
Thanks for starting the new thread on this subject. I bought a 07 slc3905 late last fall and the snow came within a week so never got to really thru it like I wanted. We used it this last weekend and loved it, everything worked great BUT I found the interior wall has a small buckle and the inside wheel well cover has pulled away from the wall. On the outside, inside the wheel well behind the tires the plastic is seperated and has been filled with silicon. Is this the same issue with the wall jacking and reinforcing the frame. Where do I start?

I am glad this is helping. That's what I ultimately wanted!!! I will upload some pictures when I get closer to completion. My wheel wells had separated some, but to be honest, I took the fender flares off the outside of the trailer, put a piece of 4' angle iron and jacked it up with 2 high lift jacks to see if the walls would go back into place, and upon lifting it, it raised the trailer off the jack stands, so all the pressure was on the walls and it didn't budge at all. I was told you can take a square and level and see if your floor/walls are tilted out at all. Well I did that and it's different all the way around the trailer, so to say it was "perfect" before, may be a long shot. I tried jacking up all sides of the trailer walls only to see that the walls didn't move one bit. So now, I just have it set on jack stands at the very rear of the trailer, use the landing gear in front as "jack stands", and the suspension has no weight on it, and I am welding in some 1/4" 2"x3" angle iron and using some small 3/4" tubing to angle brace the angle iron. In the wheel wells inbetween the tires I put a piece of 3/4" tubing that I cut at an angle to go from the bottom of the frame at an angle to the outter portion of the fender well, just to the inside of where the fender flare screws into and sits. I have almost finished one side of the trailer. I also put a piece of 2"x2" square tubing from one side of the frame to the other at the front axle, and will do it at the rear too so the frame cant flex or twist. I am excited to get this project done, and see how much stronger it is. Everyone's recommendation was to take it to socal rv, but that is not in my budget nor is it in most peoples budget. My only concern is welding near the insulation that's underneath the trailer.

Thanks for starting the new thread on this subject. I bought a 07 slc3905 late last fall and the snow came within a week so never got to really thru it like I wanted. We used it this last weekend and loved it, everything worked great BUT I found the interior wall has a small buckle and the inside wheel well cover has pulled away from the wall. On the outside, inside the wheel well behind the tires the plastic is seperated and has been filled with silicon. Is this the same issue with the wall jacking and reinforcing the frame. Where do I start?

Anyone have any tips on how to weld underneath without melting the plastic insulation? I run some beads then try to spray with water but as you know, the metal gets hot fast. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

My FB2200 was tagged 11,200 or 11,500 lbs GVW. The reason we sold it was due to outgrowing the garage space and not due to quality issues. I think ours escaped some of the flaws since it was the shortest trailer on the heaviest platform which gave it plenty of carry capacity even though we had a slide, picture windows, fiberglass, genset, and extra insulated tanks. Dry weight was 7500 lbs and we had no trouble adding 1500 lbs in just water and fuel.

allcool wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:
Hmmm. So he worked for THE company that built severely under-engineered structured haulers and now repairs them at a profit. Great business model...

JFYI...
I admit, am a bit biased as I do own a WW... but the WW TH's for most part where not under-engineered. It was the frames that caused most of the well documented problems of the most popular TH ever built,,, in its time. Not saying that WW shouldn't have handled (lifetime)warranty problems better, just many other TH have the same exact problems. Lippert Frames issues causing numerous structural problems.

WW TH's frames were not produced by WW but by Lippert.
I've heard anywhere from 65-90% of all TH manufactures use(used) Lippert frames.

Leland frame was bought up by Dexter(axles)which was bought up by...Lippert. So seems the Lippert frame use figure could be even higher now.

Here is a not complete list gathered before I bought mine and was looking at used TH's...
Toy Hauler's that use/used the Lippert frames.
Keystone
Jaycos
Thor
Forest River
Crossroads
Northwood use too, but iirr they now do in house frames...

From what I understand Lippert frames made the frames but they were built to the standards that WW asked for because WW was under stating the Gross vehicle weight so they didn't scare customers away . In California if you have a tag trailer over 10,000# or a 5th wheel over 15,000# you are required to have a Class A Non Commercial licence so WW was lying about the gross vehicle weight so prople didn't need that licence. I have had 2 WW's and know the truth about the weights.

I appreciate the responses. But please do not turn this into a weekend warrior bashing thread. It seems that there are numerous threads that get started, and then a bash fest starts. Then people like me, are left to sort through the non-sense to find helpful posts. I have personally talked to Jim. And would LOVE to take my trailer to him and get the work done, but that is just not in the budget. And quite frankly quite a few people have attempted this fix on their own and had great success, and I feel confident that I can do the same with some pictures and pointers.

Now, I feel that maybe my trailer isn't near as bad as others are. And I say that because I have tried jacking up the walls, and they haven't budged at all. So maybe mine is just normal settling over 10 years of use. But I am still trying to do what I can to strengthen whats there, so I can get numerous more years, as I REALLY like this trailer. It's exactly what I was looking for and very excited that I got a pretty good deal. I guess I am unlike most people, and don't think that we live in a perfect world. Things happen with these trailers. Yes, we are driving on asphalt, but they are taking a beating when you tow them from place to place. They aren't meant to last forever. Or atleast I know they aren't, and don't feel they should. After I get mine completed, and post pics, I will sort through and try to delete comments that are irrelevant to my issue and correcting it.

So, do any of you think I may be right when I say, maybe mine just isn't sagging enough to be able to lift it back into place noticeably??

N-Trouble wrote:
Hmmm. So he worked for THE company that built severely under-engineered structured haulers and now repairs them at a profit. Great business model...

JFYI...
I admit, am a bit biased as I do own a WW... but the WW TH's for most part where not under-engineered. It was the frames that caused most of the well documented problems of the most popular TH ever built,,, in its time. Not saying that WW shouldn't have handled (lifetime)warranty problems better, just many other TH have the same exact problems. Lippert Frames issues causing numerous structural problems.

WW TH's frames were not produced by WW but by Lippert.
I've heard anywhere from 65-90% of all TH manufactures use(used) Lippert frames.

Leland frame was bought up by Dexter(axles)which was bought up by...Lippert. So seems the Lippert frame use figure could be even higher now.

Here is a not complete list gathered before I bought mine and was looking at used TH's...
Toy Hauler's that use/used the Lippert frames.
Keystone
Jaycos
Thor
Forest River
Crossroads
Northwood use too, but iirr they now do in house frames...