I just upgraded to dual Trojan T-105 6v batteries. I have always left my batteries in the RV over winter with the trailer plugged into my house and I should be able to do this now, especially since multiple really heavy batteries are a pain to deal with.I have the OEM WFCO 8955 charger/converter and see that its specs are less than optimal for the new batteries and that problems have been reported with them not readily going into boost more. I've been reading about the PowerMax Boondocker 4-stage direct replacement and it seems like a good idea.Comments?Boondocker Main Board Assembly for WFCO 8955Also, with it plugged in all winter, is there any reason to use the Disconnect switch?

My T105's stay in my rig all winter while plugged into shore power. They are disconnected (with switch). About once a month I will check the voltage (and water) and if necessary I will connect the switch for a 24-hour period. Last winter I did not need to charge at all. My converter seems to overcharge so this process works fine.

We leave our dual Interstate 6 volt batteries plugged into shorepower year round when stored in our backyard and our Iota does a great job keeping them fully charged. The Powermax Boondocker will be a huge improvement over the WFCO, your Trojan batteries will definitely be happier with the changeout. We don't use our battery cut-off switch as it would not allow our Iota to charge our battery bank if implemented.We routinely check battery bank fluid levels, ensure connections are tight and corrosion free, and normally top-off once a year as there is very little fluid loss even when hooked up during summer months. We have 4 years thus far on our Interstate GC batteries from SamsClub and they are performing well.

Personally I can think of a couple dozen good reasons to disconnect the battery bank when in storage and not a single reason in favor of leaving them connected.

I can't speak for the WFCO or the PowerMax, but over the winter I turn off my PD9260 converter and use a Battery Minder. I noticed the Battery Minder draws much less power than the PD. I do use the battery disconnect switch. No reason to have the propane and CO monitors on, no one would hear them anyway.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:Personally I can think of a couple dozen good reasons to disconnect the battery bank when in storage and not a single reason in favor of leaving them connected.I knew I could count on you! How is the mescaline down there? :)So do you think to disconnect most of the time, but maybe connect for a day every so often to top off the charge? Just looking for more details on your answer. The "storage" is my back yard in northern Vermont if that changes anything, but leaving it plugged in is because I was told a charged battery doesn't freeze. Thanks.

WFCO & Trojan Batteries | Good Sam Community

28 Replies

mena661
Explorer
Aug 27, 2014
BFL13 wrote:
No need for thanks, you are welcome.
LOL!
BFL13
Explorer II
Aug 27, 2014
OK, that looks like a proper battery box vent like I don't have any of, but all I am seeing is a conduit for those wires to get inside without the $15 expense of adding a cable hatch.

You bust through the outer vent opening with the wires, down the "vent hose" ( now also a conduit) and cut a hole in the conduit above the battery box, go sideways with the array wires to the controller, back to the conduit with the controller to battery wires and down to the battery. Ta da! Tape up/use goop to close the hole in the "vent hose" where the the wires come and go.

No need for thanks, you are welcome.
SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Aug 27, 2014
I don't know, maybe not. :)
BFL13
Explorer II
Aug 27, 2014
I installed a "cable hatch" (about $15 at any RV store) in the door to the front compartment. The hatch has a snap lid with a smaller sliding hatch in that. I broke off the sort of spokes in the back of it.

That allows wires into the compartment and you can still lock the door (with the key that every other RVer in the world has! :) The hatch also acts as a vent for some batteries I put in there too.
SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Aug 27, 2014
westend wrote:
Why not leave the solar hooked up and the batteries disconnected from loads? Solar does an excellent job of keeping mine topped off during storage.

If I didn't have a suitcase kit with controller attached, I would do just that, especially since I programmed the controller to Trojan specs. I am just concerned that the controller attached to the back of a panel is not water resistant enough for rain and snow.
I am tempted to remove the controller and install in the basement. I would just need to get appropriate cable and connectors, plus controller to battery cable and drill through the bulkhead to the battery compartment, plus figure a way to get the panel cables into the basement without leaving the bay doors open. Another thought is to co-locate the controller in the front storage compartment with the battery box, then I could route panel cable up through the landing gear openings.
westend
Explorer
Aug 27, 2014
SkiSmuggs wrote:
beemerphile1 wrote:
Boost or bulk charging has nothing to do with leaving it plugged in all winter.

Do you drycamp often? Do you need a reliable boost/bulk charging mode?

I have been prepping it for dry camping with the dual golf cart/LED, portable solar, 12v outlets, etc. I hope to do a lot of it next summer.
It sounds like a Battery Minder may be my best solution for winter storage and I can hold off on the converter/charger upgrade.
Why not leave the solar hooked up and the batteries disconnected from loads? Solar does an excellent job of keeping mine topped off during storage.
SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Aug 27, 2014
Nothing inadequate with that post! LOL!
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 27, 2014

Set MegaWatt at 14.7 volts. Set timer for 20 minutes EACH 100 amp hours. Once a week.
SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Aug 27, 2014
What is used to accomplish the over charge? The WFCO won't do it, but the Battery Minder uses a pulse charge instead of high voltage.
BFL13
Explorer II
Aug 26, 2014
Assuming Vermont winter for the Float, 13.6 is better than 13.2 anyway, so even if the WFCO never does 13.2 (it might) doesn't matter. As long as it does 13.6 why buy a new converter to do Float at 13.2 that is too low for the ambient temp?

If the Float voltage is too low for the ambient temp, then it will not keep up with self-discharge, which is why to be on float. But even on a proper float you need a regular overcharge to counter stratification and any sulfation. I am guessing the too- low float voltage just means you need to do the overcharges more often and maybe for longer each time.

The battery maintainer float chargers would not be any better than the WFCO at its 13.6 or 13.2 unless you can adjust the float voltage on the things. You still need the regular overcharge. (do not be confused by the little shot of higher voltage some do every so often while on float, intended to counter stratification---confirm with the hydrometer how that is going over time)