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allen8106's avatar
allen8106
Explorer
Oct 27, 2016

What Solar Panel Mounts?

As I continue down my path of adding solar to my 5ver I bought 4 used 130 watt Kyocera panels today. I would be interested in hearing about mounting systems you have used with success on your RV. I have a 2010 Jayco 5ver with the typical 3/8" plywood roof.
  • ktmrfs wrote:
    RJsfishin wrote:
    Its as simple as this....and tilted to either side


    nice install, but in Oregon, well for anywhere for that matter, I'd be concerned about the exposed screw heads. from experience they are NOT watertight, so it is highly likely that water will get underneath.

    Personally I put dicor or similar on the screw heads and all the way around the bottom of the bracket.
    Dicor under the bracket before you tighten them down is sufficent,it will squeeze under the bracket and around the screws and will be water tight,installed 100s that way and never seen one leak yet and you need very little Dicor.
  • RJsfishin wrote:
    Its as simple as this....and tilted to either side


    nice install, but in Oregon, well for anywhere for that matter, I'd be concerned about the exposed screw heads. from experience they are NOT watertight, so it is highly likely that water will get underneath.

    Personally I put dicor or similar on the screw heads and all the way around the bottom of the bracket.
  • Aluminum angle pieces are de rigueur for mounting panels. Most guys use two angle pieces in each location, one attached to panel and one attached to RV roof. This allows for easier removal and installation. The "Z bracket" is an alternative. Some of the better installations I've seen use aluminum struts and the modules are attached to the struts.
    If attaching hardware into 3/8" plywood, it's a good idea to fasten through plywood into a roof truss, if possible. Toggle bolts also work but you'll have bigger holes and more work to use them. Inserts are another alternative.

    FWIW, I have a bigger 235 module and a 4-way tilting mechanism on my aluminum roof. Besides the sealants, it is attached with 3 fasteners through 2 X "U" channel, each fastener through the roof and into a truss.

    The examples of member installations that CA Traveller is kind enough to maintain a list of, pretty much cover the different types of installations.
  • Note in the pic above, there is a 1/4" x 1" x 4" alum flat bar pop riveted to the back side of the 1/8" thick frame, giving a total thickness of 3/8" for the 1/4-20 ss hand knobs to thread in to.
  • Ed_Gee wrote:
    The above picture is a good example of solid screw mount. Only thing I would add is that it should have a thin layer of Dicor sealant under the metal, as well as a good coating on top of the metal and screws.

    More and more people are using 3M double sided tape instead, though. This precludes having any holes at all in the roof. I have never heard of a solar panel mount failure in using double sided tape, either.


    not sure I'd trust tape on a EPDM roof. metal or fiberglass yes, but on a rubber roof your assuming that the glue between the rubber material and roof is designed is stronger enough to not release.
  • The above picture is a good example of solid screw mount. Only thing I would add is that it should have a thin layer of Dicor sealant under the metal, as well as a good coating on top of the metal and screws.

    More and more people are using 3M double sided tape instead, though. This precludes having any holes at all in the roof. I have never heard of a solar panel mount failure in using double sided tape, either.
  • Aluminum angle across 2 panels and small angle pieces screwed to the roof, that way you can tilt the panels if needed, 4 pieces of angle about 5 ft. long and 8 pieces of angle about 2"-3" long and use #10 screws to hold angle on the roof and Dicor to seal the screws.

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