wheel simulator installation

As promised, here's a snapshot of the front wheel mounting on my '98 E-SuperDuty based motorhome. I do now have Centramatic balancers installed, so there is maybe a half thread's worth less stud extending beyond the lug nuts than originally. Still, as you can see, there are about four or five threads for the wheel simulator nuts.

(It's not too hard to figure out which studs the wheel simulator nuts thread onto!)

96Bounder30E wrote:
If your simulators are from Dicor........you can buy new extenders from them.......www.dicorproducts.com

RLS7201 wrote:
I found some of the simulator nuts with bad threads. I welded the bad threads and retapped them.

Richard

That's a lot of work for a $3.05 pieces part :B

But I live in the part of the world where work is not a dirty word. GRIN Then I took the coins that I saved and bought a burger and malt.

Richard

If your simulators are from Dicor........you can buy new extenders from them.......www.dicorproducts.com

RLS7201 wrote:
I found some of the simulator nuts with bad threads. I welded the bad threads and retapped them.

Richard

That's a lot of work for a $3.05 pieces part :B

The

Threadless

Portion

Of

The

Stud

Is

INTENTIONAL

This is called a "Dog Point" fastener (bolt, screw, stud). Dog point screws appreciably reduce the chances of cross threading a nut. I went through hell 30 years ago finding 10x32 dog point silicon bronze screws for hand built buss bars. No SB Keps Nuts so I used star washers and HEAVY HEX bronze nuts (7/16" across the flats).

The way the world works with wheel studs and nuts is the studs are stronger and harder than the nuts. For a reason. To protect the threads of the stud. Have a too tight fit? Can't hand spin the nut? Replace it. This is a specific intentional SAE specification.

But please don't blame Dog Point studs on having someone "strip them". Sorta silly.

The ding-dong tire changers used their impact wrench to install the simulator nuts and striped the threads on the nuts. My simulators rely on the very same limited amount of threads and I won't allow a tire shop to touch them. They need to be gently hand tightened only. When I purchased my coach used, I found some of the simulator nuts with bad threads. I welded the bad threads and retapped them.

Richard

That's a front wheel, but still...I agree with sch911 that they may not be fully seated, or you have some sort of a wheel spacer, or something like that. Perhaps they're different or aftermarket wheels with a thicker center section.

This should have nothing to do specifically with the tire per se; it's just the wheel and the hub. On my '98 Ford E-SuperDuy, the studs extend a good bit further beyond the end of the lug nuts than this when the wheels are properly seated, and there's plenty of thread left to put on the wheel simulators. I think the wheel sits a little further on the hub, too, comparing the inner sleeve, but I can't verify that until this evening. I can post a couple snapshots if that would be helpful.

I would not be entirely saddened if my wheel simulators suddenly stopped attaching properly and I had to get rid of them. They look kinda pretty, but they are a bit of a pain when doing anything with the wheels or tires.

Or the wheels are not all the way seated on the hub. This can be tricky with large rear duallies!

I don't believe "the edges were all stripped out", if you look at many wheel studs you'll see that the threads rarely go all the way to the end of the stud. That is to prevent thread damage when putting the wheel on. Those look pretty normal to me.

If that's the way they were when the wheels came off, then I would think you're good to go. They may have worked before but maybe your mechanic was a little overenthusiastic and tried to tighten them more than what they should be and pulled some threads out of the wheel cover fastener.

Just a general math note

Make those nuts thinner to expose more threads and won't that jam the facade plate too tight against the wheel?

There are tens of thousands of different studs available meaning studs exactly the same as yours but pick a longer stud in 1/8" increments. How much longer do you want?

This is a misapplication issue. It was noted when the facade plates were installed then ignored a word component of ignorance. Change studs or "roll de dice".

I have never seen that type before but I would talk to "Dave" at http://www.sixrobblees.com/ in Seattle just south of Boeing field.

I think that's his name. Been there well over 20 years, knows his stuff. Just ask for the part guy who has been there forever. See if you can e-mail him the pics so he understands what problem is.

If he can't help...I would do same thing to http://www.autotiresupply.com/ (closer to first ave bridge)

Both are my "go to" places for stuff like that. For what its worth, ONE drop of removable lock tight on coupler nut. Not my, if a little bit is good, a whole lot is even better. For the type of coupler nuts I have I had to go buy a steel 8mm allen wrench to nuts off.

(And you do notice your torque spec at end of lug nut? I looked all over one day looking for it, and there it was stamped right into the end:))



IMO you just need longer studs. www.autotiresupply.com/ web site doesn't have lug nuts listed but I think they have them.
If you do need longer studs, do it yourself at a later date to save ton of labor, don't let Les Schwab gets a hold of you. One of the few times on your RV you get to use a hammer and beat on something.