I have noticed on almost all solar panel RV mounts that they are designed to utilize bolt holes on the bottom rim of the panel. Is there a reason why they don't make it so you can bolt to sides and easily remove the panels for cleaning underneath or replacing the panel? Note that drilling holes on the frame voids the warranty as I was told. But I'm still interested if it can be done.

Primarily designed for a standardized commercial rack system. Drill as needed for your custom RV mount system.

DAS26miles wrote:I have noticed on almost all solar panel RV mounts that they are designed to utilize bolt holes on the bottom rim of the panel. Is there a reason why they don't make it so you can bolt to sides and easily remove the panels for cleaning underneath or replacing the panel? Note that drilling holes on the frame voids the warranty as I was told. But I'm still interested if it can be done.well, my roof solar panels are mounted on the sides with plastic wing nuts so I can attach arms for angling them or cleaning.not all mounts are underside. look around and you can find both kinds.Oh, and mine used existing mounts on the panel, no need to drill any new holes.

I haven't seen any with side mounts, all seem to be underneath. I want to mount my new panel up to 1 1/4-1 1/2" for air flow. Most of the Z brackets are 5/8" to 1" Plus I need multiple mounting holes to the roof as mine is very thin and I will either use Drywall anchors which will mount flush or well nuts that have a lip raising the mount 3/16".

Standard panel mounts are L shaped and bolt to the backside thereby providing you with the side mount you desire. Whatever clearance they provide from the roof is plenty. And you'll have 8 screws/panel into the roof.

DAS26miles wrote:I haven't seen any with side mounts, all seem to be underneath. I want to mount my new panel up to 1 1/4-1 1/2" for air flow. Most of the Z brackets are 5/8" to 1" Plus I need multiple mounting holes to the roof as mine is very thin and I will either use Drywall anchors which will mount flush or well nuts that have a lip raising the mount 3/16".here is a link to side mounts that allow a panel be tilted easily. no inexpensive, but I found they work very well.https://amsolar.com/rv-solar-panel-kit/mounting-accessories/

Why are Solar Panels mounted to bottom instead of sides?

grizzzman
Explorer
Dec 05, 2017
DAS26miles wrote:
grizzzman wrote:
DAS26miles wrote:
Going to make my own mounts using aluminum angle iron. Going to cut into 3" or 4" lengths, drill hole and attach with bolts to form a Z. Then mount to thin roof with well nuts, 2 per mount and soaked and covered in 3M 5200 adhesive caulk.

Question? What gauge aluminum do I need 16 gauge or 11 gauge? Using 6 mounts instead of 4.
Looks like some on Amazon are very thin and other are thicker.

Found it at HD heavier 1/8" equals 11 gauge, going with that.

I did something about the same. The top angle was 2" wide the bottom 5"
With 4 staggered holes. I mounted them close to the edge. On the last two RVs,I found that along the edge of the roofline , there is something substantial to screw to. My current RV has the same roof as yours. I used Polyurethane. (the same stuff that glues in windshield's
) You can find it at HD (look in roof sealants).
Good luck wit your project!

I only want the panels 1" to 1 1/2" off the roof so not too much air can get under it while driving and lift it off. I have driven 80 mph in places like AZ and UT where the speed limit is that high. Also down to 60 mph with 40 mph gusts so I want as little wind effect on the panel.
I wouldn't mind having a broader base and maybe use 1 1/2" for the portion mounted to the panel and 2" mounted to the roof leaving it extended up the side of the panel frame.
DAS26miles
Explorer II
Dec 04, 2017
grizzzman wrote:
DAS26miles wrote:
Going to make my own mounts using aluminum angle iron. Going to cut into 3" or 4" lengths, drill hole and attach with bolts to form a Z. Then mount to thin roof with well nuts, 2 per mount and soaked and covered in 3M 5200 adhesive caulk.

Question? What gauge aluminum do I need 16 gauge or 11 gauge? Using 6 mounts instead of 4.
Looks like some on Amazon are very thin and other are thicker.

Found it at HD heavier 1/8" equals 11 gauge, going with that.

I did something about the same. The top angle was 2" wide the bottom 5"
With 4 staggered holes. I mounted them close to the edge. On the last two RVs,I found that along the edge of the roofline , there is something substantial to screw to. My current RV has the same roof as yours. I used Polyurethane. (the same stuff that glues in windshield's
) You can find it at HD (look in roof sealants).
Good luck wit your project!

I only want the panels 1" to 1 1/2" off the roof so not too much air can get under it while driving and lift it off. I have driven 80 mph in places like AZ and UT where the speed limit is that high. Also down to 60 mph with 40 mph gusts so I want as little wind effect on the panel.
I wouldn't mind having a broader base and maybe use 1 1/2" for the portion mounted to the panel and 2" mounted to the roof leaving it extended up the side of the panel frame.
grizzzman
Explorer
Dec 04, 2017
DAS26miles wrote:
Going to make my own mounts using aluminum angle iron. Going to cut into 3" or 4" lengths, drill hole and attach with bolts to form a Z. Then mount to thin roof with well nuts, 2 per mount and soaked and covered in 3M 5200 adhesive caulk.

Question? What gauge aluminum do I need 16 gauge or 11 gauge? Using 6 mounts instead of 4.
Looks like some on Amazon are very thin and other are thicker.

Found it at HD heavier 1/8" equals 11 gauge, going with that.

I did something about the same. The top angle was 2" wide the bottom 5"
With 4 staggered holes. I mounted them close to the edge. On the last two RVs,I found that along the edge of the roofline , there is something substantial to screw to. My current RV has the same roof as yours. I used Polyurethane. (the same stuff that glues in windshield's
) You can find it at HD (look in roof sealants).
Good luck wit your project!
DAS26miles
Explorer II
Dec 04, 2017
Going to make my own mounts using aluminum angle iron. Going to cut into 3" or 4" lengths, drill hole and attach with bolts to form a Z. Then mount to thin roof with well nuts, 2 per mount and soaked and covered in 3M 5200 adhesive caulk.

Question? What gauge aluminum do I need 16 gauge or 11 gauge? Using 6 mounts instead of 4.
Looks like some on Amazon are very thin and other are thicker.

Found it at HD heavier 1/8" equals 11 gauge, going with that.
DAS26miles
Explorer II
Dec 02, 2017
Pauldub, I thought about the VHB tape and called. Seems it's no recommenced for my dimpled roof, only flat sufraces.
pauldub
Explorer
Dec 02, 2017
Tom_M wrote:
DAS26miles wrote:
My roof is fiberglass only 1/16" thick and 1/8" luan plywood and 3" of styrofoam. Not much to hold the screws.
The answer is to use more screws. Westend has some good advice, start with 2" aluminum angle and make each bracket any length. Make the brackets that attach to the roof long enough to use a bunch of screws.

I'm about to install mine to a fiberglass roof using only 3m 4950 VHB tape. AM Solar uses it and claim they have never lost a panel.
RJsfishin
Explorer
Dec 02, 2017
DAS26miles wrote:
My roof is fiberglass only 1/16" thick and 1/8" luan plywood and 3" of styrofoam. Not much to hold the screws.

I can assure you that if properly mounted, that is plenty of material to hold the panels. Two screws and dico calking, on 4 mounts, will completely destroy the panel before ever pulling the mounts.

Many of the commercials mount the panel mounts w/ adheasive only, and I've never heard of a failure. Installing 1 screw w/ the adheasive is optional.
BFL13
Explorer II
Dec 02, 2017
DAS26miles wrote:
My roof is fiberglass only 1/16" thick and 1/8" luan plywood and 3" of styrofoam. Not much to hold the screws.

Not pretty maybe, but on the truck camper I didn't have good places to attach brackets either, so I used 8 ft 2x4s across the roof with brackets to hold them at their ends to the solid top frame at the edges of the roof each side. I then attached the panels to the 2x4s. You could use metal pieces across the roof instead of wood same idea.
tiffy2000
Explorer
Dec 02, 2017
mount a hinge to Z brackets on one side
Tom_M1
Explorer
Dec 02, 2017
DAS26miles wrote:
My roof is fiberglass only 1/16" thick and 1/8" luan plywood and 3" of styrofoam. Not much to hold the screws.
The answer is to use more screws. Westend has some good advice, start with 2" aluminum angle and make each bracket any length. Make the brackets that attach to the roof long enough to use a bunch of screws.

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