Will my WFCO 55 amp over charge?

The trailer does have a battery cut off switch. It’s off and I just checked to see if it charges the batteries when plugged in. It does.
So draw on them shouldn’t be an issue.

WFCO should be a 3 stage converter and should not overcharge.

however that said they do have a high failure rate. However the most common failure is not going into BULK mode, so again it should not overcharge.

I had a progressive dynamics 3-stage and did leave it plugged in all winter. Worked fine.

philh wrote:
wfco chargers are POS and known for boiling batteries dry and/or never going into bulk charge mode.

WFCO converters use a voltage and current sense along with timers, if too much current is being drawn during storage and the voltage is low enough over a specified time limit it will never go into storage mode (13.2V).

Phantom loads like the stereo/entertainment system, fridge control board, water heater control boar, furnace control board and the LP gas detector even though they may appear to be turned of all draw a small amount of 12V current (AKA Phantom loads).. Typically those phantom loads are enough to prevent the converter from dropping into storage mode.

Not going into bulk mode is a issue which the converter does not "see" the proper battery voltages within specified time limits..

Pretty much ALL multistage converters have these issues, some just handle it better than others. But the real blame should be placed on RV builder placing the converter too far away from the batteries and using too light of a ga of wire for the distance.

Both issues can be "cured", removing the phantom loads generally cures the issue of not going into storage mode and upgrading the wire size often cures the bulk mode issue..

It is not all the fault of the converter.

As far as the OPs question goes, you should be OK to leave converter connected and running 24/7 as long as you check to make sure it is indeed dropping into storage mode of 13.2V. Basically converter monitors battery voltage and after a preset time that it sees no drop in voltage (like turning on lights) it is supposed to drop into storage mode. Sometimes however there are enough small loads like your stereo that may appear to be turned off but draw enough current that the converter is faked into staying out of storage mode.

Sometimes you can pull a fuse or two of the offending items and that will stop that issue.

You can of coarse, just disconnect the batteries once they are fully charged and leave them in the RV for the winter. Disconnecting the batteries gets rid of the phantom draws and reduces the discharge down to the self discharge levels. Fully charged batteries store well for 3-6 months at a time without needing charged and charged batteries will not freeze in cold weather.

Another way to go if one is hyper scared of WFCO, put the converter on a 24hr mechanical appliance timer ($10) set the on for 2-4 hrs per day (this would be same charging routine as if you had solar panels) and it won't overcharge the batteries.. You could jump up to a electronic timer which gives you more programing flexibility but make sure it is an appliance rated timer.

You didn't say how much access you have to your rig while in storage, but mine is next to my house and I have a battery disconnect and I too don't want to haul the batteries out anymore either.... (dual 12v is all I have).

I just check the rig every couple weeks and switch the batteries on before I open it up.. I usually leave it alone until it shows only 2 out of 4 lights on the panel, then I'll switch on the 120v power for a day or two and then turn off the 120v and switch off the battery disconnect..

My Dad would leave his rig plugged in 24/7 and he always had to replace his batteries every couple of years... I kept telling him to just unplug it, as it was in his shop the whole time and he spent a ton of time in there... Just plug it in once a month for a day or two, then unplug it... No, no, "the converter is supposed to maintain the batteries when they are charged and then float.."

He also thought that keeping electric heaters on during the winter would keep him from having to 'winterize' the rig.... NOPE... Froze the lines, even with it kept at 50 degrees on the heaters and had to replace several pipes and joints..

Anyway, that reminds me... I need to check my rig and probably switch the power on since it's been at least a month since I've checked on it.. (I can see it right now out my window too! ha, ha)

Good luck, Mitch

Charge the batteries to 100%, disconnect a battery cable, come back in the spring and top up the 10% charge that the batteries lost over the winter.

Was thinking then perhaps I’ll just plug it in for a day every two weeks. ??

wfco chargers are POS and known for boiling batteries dry and/or never going into bulk charge mode.

ivbinconned wrote:
Normally I do take them ( 4 6volts) out but as I get older for some reason they get heavier!!
And if Biden can figure it out that an un-jabbed Canadian snowbird isolated in his trailer is no more dangerous than the millions streaming in from the south to stay.

Get lighter batteries. You seriously want to turn this into politics?

Normally I do take them ( 4 6volts) out but as I get older for some reason they get heavier!!
And if Biden can figure it out that an un-jabbed Canadian snowbird isolated in his trailer is no more dangerous than the millions streaming in from the south to stay.
Maybe will drive south for two months and spend some money.

2oldman wrote:
Bring batteries in and keep them warm. They like that.

:B