Wire #6, #4, lugs and bus bars
"Beautifying" my solar wiring from controller to battery. Scrap pieces of #18 wire (yes, like on your desk lamp) twisted together to make it #12 need to be replaced with proper #6 and #4 wires. Tr...
Forum Discussion
Personally I choose ROPE STRANDED AWG wire.
People seem to ignore the fact that unsoldered wire to terminal socket interface renders exposed wire strand surfaces and terminal sockets vulnerable to oxidation. Oxi. Oxygen. Copper oxide. The best crimped terminals and adhesive lined shrink tubing does not reduce wire surface oxidation one whit. Crimped and sealed the wire strand contact area has a few billion oxygen molecules busy. When the void is filled with tin/lead the oxidation of wire strand to termimal surface O2 contamimation drops to zero.
partsexpress.com sells an excellent value ratchet crimper to 2-gauge capacity. Thirty some odd dollars. Not Chinese junk. Sell the tool when you get done with the job.
Picky me. I choose a frame hole. I rub and scrub the steel with 90-grit emery cloth until it shines. Then with a propane torch I spend what seems an eternity heating the shined surface and apply a layer of solder. In this instance 100% lead works best for corrosion resistance. I use a stainless steel bolt, nut, and lockwasher. When the lug is attached I smear a glob of chassis grease overtop the lug and both ends of the bolt. This is a long-duration connection wildly more reliable than other methods I have tried.
With larger size lugs 2-gauge and bigger I order the next size larger lug.I have fought too many battles with same size lugs. House and industrial wire will fit - but not welding cable.
Wrap the wire end to be cut with a hacksaw TIGHTLY with duct tape. Use water as a lubricant. This is a toigh tow to hoe without a proper wire cutting tool.
In lieu of anything else coat the ready to be assembled stripped cable ends in dielectric grease. PLEASE! NO ARGUMENTS! I have done thousands of cable connections this way with no failures. Soldering is by far the best way but silicone dielectric grease is a steady 2nd place.
People seem to ignore the fact that unsoldered wire to terminal socket interface renders exposed wire strand surfaces and terminal sockets vulnerable to oxidation. Oxi. Oxygen. Copper oxide. The best crimped terminals and adhesive lined shrink tubing does not reduce wire surface oxidation one whit. Crimped and sealed the wire strand contact area has a few billion oxygen molecules busy. When the void is filled with tin/lead the oxidation of wire strand to termimal surface O2 contamimation drops to zero.
partsexpress.com sells an excellent value ratchet crimper to 2-gauge capacity. Thirty some odd dollars. Not Chinese junk. Sell the tool when you get done with the job.
Picky me. I choose a frame hole. I rub and scrub the steel with 90-grit emery cloth until it shines. Then with a propane torch I spend what seems an eternity heating the shined surface and apply a layer of solder. In this instance 100% lead works best for corrosion resistance. I use a stainless steel bolt, nut, and lockwasher. When the lug is attached I smear a glob of chassis grease overtop the lug and both ends of the bolt. This is a long-duration connection wildly more reliable than other methods I have tried.
With larger size lugs 2-gauge and bigger I order the next size larger lug.I have fought too many battles with same size lugs. House and industrial wire will fit - but not welding cable.
Wrap the wire end to be cut with a hacksaw TIGHTLY with duct tape. Use water as a lubricant. This is a toigh tow to hoe without a proper wire cutting tool.
In lieu of anything else coat the ready to be assembled stripped cable ends in dielectric grease. PLEASE! NO ARGUMENTS! I have done thousands of cable connections this way with no failures. Soldering is by far the best way but silicone dielectric grease is a steady 2nd place.
