Yet another Solar Install thread

If you're not sure, like me, think about first going w/ a couple 100 watt panels, that could temporarly be used as portables, until you know more about what you need, or should I say, "want" ??
Not to mention that portables can be much more efficient than fixed, if you keep them aimed toward the sun thru the day.

First you need to decide size required. Tell more about how much battery you have and how that holds up for you. Otherwise figure about 50 watts to 150 watts per battery depending on use and loads.

I got mine at solarblvd.com because of good prices and local pickup saved shipping. Shipping will have a significant impact on large 24v panels.

If going big it is very important to measure and compensate for shadows for best fitment and performance.

What the Hitech said. Decide what you want from the system first. Some people need 5 times more a day, than others.

You can't just "decide" between 12V and 24V. Small panels are mostly 12V, and larger ones, say, over 180W - 24V. It can be easier to mount a few panels under 120W each (and then they will be 12V, you won't have a choice of voltage here) - than one panel over 200W (which will be 24V or higher) but there are drawbacks to either scenario. It's too early to talk about this. You need to decide how much total wattage you want.

When solar panels where over $5 per rated watt, and a 90 watt system with controller, wiring and wiring diagrams cost $750, the extra $20 for tilt brackets was worth it to get the extra 15% in power IF you stay in one location more than a few nights. (going sightseeing with the RV each day meant that this was no longer a advantage).

Now that you can buy solar panels for around $1 - $1.50 per rated watt, it is not worth it to tilt the panels. Just buy another 100 watts, and not worry about climbing onto the roof.

I made my brackets with 2" angle aluminum. I cut it at 6" long and drilled 1 - 5/16" hole for the bolt into the panel frame, and 3- 3/16" holes for #10 screws into the RV roof with a lot of RV roof sealant.

Tilt arms where made from 3/4" thin gauge aluminum about 18" long.

I used 1/4-20 "Nutserts" that pop rivit into the solar panel frame. I used stainless steel tamper resistant bolts into the panels, to keep them from walking away.

I used #10 - 2 UV resistant grey romex running down the refrigerator vent to the controller, it is good for about 15 amps each run. If you have more than 2 panels, run two wires. (Home Depot) If you have 4 panels that are identical, you can pick to run them at 24 volts IF you have a MPPT controller. MPPT controllers can take in up to 60 or some models 150 volts and convert it to 12 volt "Nominal" output. Then you will have less voltage loss through the wiring.

I have my system set up with 12 volt nominal voltage - the panels put out about 21 VDC. This goes to a 50 amp controller that puts out 13.5 volts to recharge the battery.

I have a pair of golf cart batteries. My first pair lasted 13 years and I gave them to a friend who kept using them. My second set only lasted 6 years, I forgot to add water a few times.

SunElec.com has panels from $1 per rated watt. Look for 12 volt panels if you want to use PWM controller, or any voltage if you want to use a MPPT controller.

I just bought a couple of 10 amp PWM controllers for $13 each. AliExpress.com

SolarOnSale.com is where Ihad my Trace inverter repaired in 1999 and bought my pair of 120 watt panels. THey also do installations in Victorville CA.




Fred.

Renoman69's install compilation thread is a good one. Also, Jack and Dan Meyer's website has a lot of good information.

I bought my module from Solarblvd.com and am happy with everything except the shipping cost, as Mena noted.

Potential amount of solar charging power is hinged on battery capacity and daily use, for the most part. Living in sunny CA helps. If you haven't done an energy audit, this downloadable spreadsheet, posted by Pianotuna, is a really good way to estimate needs and battery capacity.

I chose a 24v nominal 235w module and a Morningstar MPPT controller for my needs. The controller can set charging parameters through the optional PC software interface and also shows real-time data from the system. It is geeky as H&^%.

12V or 24V depends on how much roof space you have, how much solar you want and how much your budget is. As far as brands, IMO, solar is cheap enough that brand doesn't matter. Very few are going to exercise a particular panels warranty before selling their rigs. Being in CA, solarblvd.com in Norco is the "best" place to buy panels IMO. You are a ways away from there but you might still want to weigh the shipping costs vs driving down there and picking them up.

What would you like to be able to do with your first solar set up, and your eventual complete set up?

A lot of the answers you will get (from myself included) will tend to make implicit assumptions about that, so it is better to get what you know about what you may want to do out there early.

I don't know yet is a valid answer, if you are just in the exploration stage.

Jim