'16 F250 w/o in-bed 7 pin plug & how to get a camper package

WyoBull wrote:
I had my Ford Dealer install the 7-way plug in the bed. The only way you can get it from the factory is if you order the 5th wheel prep package. It was an easy job for them to do and it looks just like it came from the factory.

Fishbreath wrote:
With regards to your original question regarding getting the wiring into the bed of your truck, you can buy an aftermarket kit that will plug into your existing wiring. It should be plug and play.
See if this is what you are looking for


https://www.amazon.com/56070-Custom-Wiring-Harness-Extension/dp/B0031GHBSE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520530359&sr=8-1&keywords=5th+wheel+wiring+harness

I couldn't get the hyperlink to work.

Good luck

Thanks Bill for the link!

Bill

Grit dog wrote:

desertroad wrote:

burningman wrote:

desertroad wrote:


One thing I'm not sure about though, if I go with just a regular mechanic, will they also supply a valid camper package certificate, or is that only something a dealer can officially do?

What? Who cares and why would you need such a thing?

Maybe a DOT requirement to have in case of accident where I'm at fault, not sure where I read that.

No, I wouldn't worry about the camper package thing at all. And I'm skeptical that the certification you're thinking about even exists.
Lots of discussion about liability but in 30 yrpears of driving and seeing plenty of at fault accidents (big construction company) with overloaded trucks, never seen any more than the typical tickets for failure to yield etc, including accidents that caused injury and damages to other parties. Even a few lawsuits filed against the company, but it was for negligence of the driver, not equipment violations.

Extension from the bumper receptacle will work fine for a long time and in some cases may be easier to hook up. Plis I have 0 chance of pinching the wires when loading since I fish em to the back after loading and remove before unloading.
Mileage with the 6.2, I got 12-13 commuting, never hauled the camper on it, but similar loads/trailers, I'd expect 8-10mpg with the camper depending on speed. Maybe 11 if you baby it. The transmissions are spot on for shifting, down shifting, grade braking.
I'd slap on some tie downs, sway bar and either Timbrens, airbags or add a leafs depending on your preference and you're set.

Grit dog wrote:

desertroad wrote:

scout4trout wrote:
The 2016 Ford camper package on the F250 includes rear auxiliary springs as well as a sway bar, so you could probably have Ford install those. But I'd opt for the Big Wig sway bar. Another member on this forum had a 2016 F250 with camper package that didn't feel he had sufficient capacity for his new Northern Lite (about 2,750 dry weight) so he upgraded to an F350. I don't know what model Big Foot you have, but the 2500 series are hefty for the F250. We're maxed on our F250. Probably should have listened to those on here that said we should go with the F350 when we were ordering.

Thanks for the info...Yes, we have a 2500 series Bigfoot, about 2700 Lb wet. My 85 diesel is hauling it fine without any noticable sagging. And I figure if I got a gas instead of diesel F250, it should lighten the truck to make up for the extended cab. You don't really know for sure until it's on the scales. I'm willing to take out the back seats of the extended cab and drive with less in the tanks to shave some more off to get closer to the 2500 Lb limit. Getting an F350 in California may be a lot more pricey with regards to DMV registration fees if I read it correctly.

Don’t go through pains to drop minimal weight from the new truck. You said it yourself. You’re hauling the same camper fine for years with a 30 year old truck. The New one is more capable, not less.
What you may find though is the std F250s like your new one have, IMO, relatively soft rear springs. They’re more progressive, good ride compar d to the old lumber wagons. Little bit of suspension help and you’ll be set.
Both the 13 and 15 models I had rode real nice compared to say my 07 Dodge. Rear springs are softer, but there’s easy fixes for that. Rest of the truck is the same as a 1 ton with softer springs.

desertroad wrote:

burningman wrote:

desertroad wrote:


One thing I'm not sure about though, if I go with just a regular mechanic, will they also supply a valid camper package certificate, or is that only something a dealer can officially do?

What? Who cares and why would you need such a thing?

Maybe a DOT requirement to have in case of accident where I'm at fault, not sure where I read that.

burningman wrote:

desertroad wrote:


One thing I'm not sure about though, if I go with just a regular mechanic, will they also supply a valid camper package certificate, or is that only something a dealer can officially do?

What? Who cares and why would you need such a thing?

desertroad wrote:


One thing I'm not sure about though, if I go with just a regular mechanic, will they also supply a valid camper package certificate, or is that only something a dealer can officially do?

stevenal wrote:
I had an in-bed receptacle two trucks ago. It was installed by the camper dealer using undersized wire and Scotch-loc connectors ensuring high voltage drop and little charging capability. They punched through the sheet metal leaving raw edges, so that's where the corrosion began. I also had to be careful when loading material to keep from damaging it. Beginning with my last truck, I now connect to the trailer receptacle and leave the bed clean.