While waiting for a first coat of metallic bronze paint to dry on some surfaces of new wood, I moved back into the bathroom. The next step here was to complete the counter top, which doubles as the roof of the propane compartment.
I started by using a carpenter's square to mark right angles on the walls for positioning cleats. I ended up raising one side to allow the counter to sit flat and to slightly angle forward so water won't puddle.
Then more 3/4" x 3/4" cleats cut to size on the table saw, pre-drilled and installed. I made these about 1/16" wider for the width fastened to the sidewalls, just to eliminate a potential screw poking through the other side.
For the camper side wall cleat (the back edge of the counter) I had to add framing in the wall to accept the screws. And, I had to reach about 3" higher than the existing framing so I added this full 1x4 (3.5") board which also gives upper support to Lil' Queenie's bruise on the propane compartment header. If you look close you can see the bruise is healing. It's taking longer than I expected, but for which of us isn't THAT true? We'll probably see it take on some pretty cool colors before it disappears altogether!
The board was glued and stapled and also screwed it those two spots.
Then I added the cleat.
Maybe you can tell from my sometimes overkill construction that I really dislike walking into an RV bathroom and feeling afraid to put pressure on any surface because it feels like I'll push through the wall or something. My materials and construction might be just a little more than necessary, but I feel it doesn't add THAT much more weight and the more solid the construction, the less likely age or flex will loosen and damage the components.
Next I cut the counter top board out of 3/4" plywood and looked close at the basin to figure out how to make the cutout. The fasteners were closer than I had realized. There's only about 3/16" of rim to seal around the sides and front, and in the back, the faucet holes are what's used to fasten the sink to the counter! That may change my plumbing plans a bit. Fortunately, the rim was beveled in such a way that I could mark the cut-out line by following a part of the bevel on an extreme pencil angle. Then I eye-balled the back side, marked it, and made my cut.
Next were the test fits and the drain evaluations.
I had to place the sink back a little more than preferred just because of the front wall's 1 1/4" thickness. That gave me enough room for the under mount tabs.
Even so, both DW and myself can stand in there, face over the sink, and we are directly above it's center. That's perfect, especially if you have eyes closed.
And from below.
Regarding the DWV plumbing. As discussed prior, I agree it's best to include a vent for this drain. It will exit the wall toward the top of the inside of the propane tank. That will make it lower than the sink rim, but I believe it will be okay. The kitchen sink vent was designed the same way from the factory, and it will give me a cleaner install than any other plan.
Also, the sink basin itself accepts a 1 3/8" I.D. hose (or black tailpiece in these pictures). The black tailpiece accepts a 1 1/4" I.D. hose. If used, the black tail-piece will be shortened to fit the propane tanks better.
I might use a 1 1/4" or 1 3/8" flexible Smooth Bor brand hose to plumb it right from the sink down to the grey water tank. By doing so I could easily route it where I need and form a trap on the warm side of the camper just before it enters into the grey water tank. At any rate, my DVW plumbing will route out of the sink, to the back wall of the propane cabinet and down through a hole in it's bottom while the vent tees off to the cabinet face wall. From beneath the cabinet the hose will elbow forward, then make a left turn into the under-dinette cabinet where it will fasten to the wall in a trap loop and then drop into the grey water tank.
