Forum Discussion
Dave_Pete
Apr 28, 2015Explorer II
It's hard to know before starting work, just which topics and categories to start and continue posting in. Here in "Bathroom Remodel", today's post - and yesterday's - could just as easily have gone under "Waste Water".
As big as "Galley and Greatroom" has gotten, I could've had an "Appliances" category. But I suppose a multi-thread project like this is just going to create such question. Hopefully, those researching work in the future will be able to locate what they might need.
I've been doing work on the front cab-over structure, and that post is coming before long, but I wanted to take yesterday's unplanned shower drain work a little further - so I got onto that as well.
I had all my parts to accomplish what ticki2 had helped me resolve yesterday, except the flange nut for securing the tub/shower drain piece. So I took what I did have over to the table saw.
Step A.
Step B.
Step C. Rounded excess on the bench sander disc.
I soon realized the flange nut couldn't have that kind of height, so I made some close measurements and cut it down further, still leaving enough thread, but I wouldn't want to go smaller. Then I used the sanding disc to make a hex for the water-pump pliers to grasp.
I don't know for certain, but I expect I could have found something like this at the store. However, the way things are packaged these days it probably would have come in a kit with multiple un-needed parts, I had no use now for this original piece, and there's a 90%+ chance that the store on THIS side of town would not have had it, and would still be playing classic disco music, so it would have been a several hour event running to the other side of town, after making the first stop and getting irritated.
Knowing what I learned yesterday, I could finally cut the shower pan support board in a 4.25" hole instead of some sort of notch to accommodate the tub plumbing elbow I had now shaped into a nut.
These are the players.
Test fitting the pieces proved the rubber washer too thick, so I used the foam washer. But the foam (or a cheaper, thinner rubber washer as provided typically) is much weaker than is the rubber.
With a plumber's putty "rope" I attached the drain, washer and flange nut.
The foam washer started to distort, and I'm not certain I like that so it may still be re-worked. I might be able to further shorten the flange nut and use the rubber washer.
Then came the leak test. It passed.
With the shower support board back in place you can see how close the tank edge is, and why I hadn't considered a straight down tailpiece until now.
But a close inspection proves otherwise. Like I said yesterday, there is room, but just barely.
Then with the shower pan in place.
And this shot shows the reality of the small distances I'm working with.
Until I get the Fernco trap and the other fittings I won't know how long to make the tailpiece. I made a cut to a temporary 4" length for the photo op.
There's only 1/4" between the tank and the tailpiece. But that's all we need.
As big as "Galley and Greatroom" has gotten, I could've had an "Appliances" category. But I suppose a multi-thread project like this is just going to create such question. Hopefully, those researching work in the future will be able to locate what they might need.
I've been doing work on the front cab-over structure, and that post is coming before long, but I wanted to take yesterday's unplanned shower drain work a little further - so I got onto that as well.
I had all my parts to accomplish what ticki2 had helped me resolve yesterday, except the flange nut for securing the tub/shower drain piece. So I took what I did have over to the table saw.
Step A.
Step B.
Step C. Rounded excess on the bench sander disc.
I soon realized the flange nut couldn't have that kind of height, so I made some close measurements and cut it down further, still leaving enough thread, but I wouldn't want to go smaller. Then I used the sanding disc to make a hex for the water-pump pliers to grasp.
I don't know for certain, but I expect I could have found something like this at the store. However, the way things are packaged these days it probably would have come in a kit with multiple un-needed parts, I had no use now for this original piece, and there's a 90%+ chance that the store on THIS side of town would not have had it, and would still be playing classic disco music, so it would have been a several hour event running to the other side of town, after making the first stop and getting irritated.
Knowing what I learned yesterday, I could finally cut the shower pan support board in a 4.25" hole instead of some sort of notch to accommodate the tub plumbing elbow I had now shaped into a nut.
These are the players.
Test fitting the pieces proved the rubber washer too thick, so I used the foam washer. But the foam (or a cheaper, thinner rubber washer as provided typically) is much weaker than is the rubber.
With a plumber's putty "rope" I attached the drain, washer and flange nut.
The foam washer started to distort, and I'm not certain I like that so it may still be re-worked. I might be able to further shorten the flange nut and use the rubber washer.
Then came the leak test. It passed.
With the shower support board back in place you can see how close the tank edge is, and why I hadn't considered a straight down tailpiece until now.
But a close inspection proves otherwise. Like I said yesterday, there is room, but just barely.
Then with the shower pan in place.
And this shot shows the reality of the small distances I'm working with.
Until I get the Fernco trap and the other fittings I won't know how long to make the tailpiece. I made a cut to a temporary 4" length for the photo op.
There's only 1/4" between the tank and the tailpiece. But that's all we need.
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