3.73 to 4.1 is an approx 10% in crease in torque multiplication...4.1 to 4.5 is
an appro 10% increase in torque multiplication...that is the general steps for
GM diff ratio's
2002, so GMT800 with the crappy receiver...if it hasn't been changed out to a
traditional receiver, do so before towing. About $200 bucks plus 1 hours labor
to take out the OEM and replace
As to what diff ratio...yes many change out the MPG weighted ratio to a better
towing ratio after they find out
Tie a length of string on the drive shaft and roll the vehicle one tire rev using
the valve stem as a datum.
Then count the number of full turns of string on the drive shaft...and the
faction of a turn
That is your true diff ratio and makes no matter what tire size you have
Remove the string (have to say that, as got on PM from a person mad that I
didn't tell him to remove the string...)
An Avalanche is a Suburban with the rear bobbed. Same drive train/etc
Most after market trailer brake controllers are NOT adjusted well. My P3 works
GREAT...leads the TV and can even stop the whole setup without ever initiating
the TV's brakes
Why, IMHO, integrated works so well for the majority
Key is the GM brake pedal switch...it initiates the brake lights with just
a few millimeters movement...before the pedal rod even moves to generate PSI
in the MC
OATs coolant, so make sure to test it. O2 (air) in the system is VERY bad
and WILL clog up the radiator with acidic globules that will also rot out the
radiator (both main and heater core). Check it out carefully
Good luck!!
