2013 Ram 6.7 With Some Motor Issues

SweetLou wrote:
Ok, here is the diagnosis from the dealer. Code P00AF which they say is the actuator. Also, the electrical issue I have been having is the Switch Bank Module which controls all those buttons we turn on for TH, or EB. They have an actuator in stock (Mopar) obviously remanufactured, for $2200 installed. The switch bank module is $400 installed. I asked if the service manager can do more to get the cost down. He says he should be able to do so. Also, keep in mind the private shops I have been calling can't even look at the truck 2-3 weeks. It's a pickle and even if you go with Geno's whose part is backordered for two weeks, it's really a difference of how much from an independent shop vs dealer at this point. Truck also is in limp mode, plus more recourse at a dealer if something goes wrong. Might just go with the dealer on this one.

Yes , there is the warranty from the dealer , self repair , or some shop could end up even more in cost if they get it wrong .

Cummins12V98 wrote:

SweetLou wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Lou your money but I would not change out the turbo if actuator is bad.

Part of the problem is Geno's and City diesel are out of stock, so may be forced to get the turbo as well. Geno's says until 7/16 but what if I wait and they extend that as well? I can't get a mechanic so far to start work until 7/20 and I do need to truck. I'll wait for the dealer and the codes they found first

Too bad you are not on the West side of WA. My Mechanic friend recently installed the City Diesel actuator on a 13 and it was a piece of cake. He also had to wait and ordered directly from City. The truck was fine to drive around until the part arrived. My truck was fine to drive also, the EB was intermittent.

I’m wondering why your actuator, was over 1k more then what seems to be a reasonable cost from other dealers . Only reason I bring it up is to let members know if they go with a dealer , the cost should be $2200 . Any reason why yours was that much more ? Regardless whether you had warranty or not should be a standard charge from a reputable dealer .

SweetLou wrote:
Ok, here is the diagnosis from the dealer. Code P00AF which they say is the actuator. Also, the electrical issue I have been having is the Switch Bank Module which controls all those buttons we turn on for TH, or EB. They have an actuator in stock (Mopar) obviously remanufactured, for $2200 installed. The switch bank module is $400 installed. I asked if the service manager can do more to get the cost down. He says he should be able to do so. Also, keep in mind the private shops I have been calling can't even look at the truck 2-3 weeks. It's a pickle and even if you go with Geno's whose part is backordered for two weeks, it's really a difference of how much from an independent shop vs dealer at this point. Truck also is in limp mode, plus more recourse at a dealer if something goes wrong. Might just go with the dealer on this one.

That’s good to hear on cost , sounds like a standard repair from Mopar @ $2200, same as mine . Sounds like the repair 12v got was a bit of a gouge at over 3k . Sounds like some dealers got their own idea of cost .

The breakdown for mine was about $1750 parts , $360 labor plus the taxes .

Ok, here is the diagnosis from the dealer. Code P00AF which they say is the actuator. Also, the electrical issue I have been having is the Switch Bank Module which controls all those buttons we turn on for TH, or EB. They have an actuator in stock (Mopar) obviously remanufactured, for $2200 installed. The switch bank module is $400 installed. I asked if the service manager can do more to get the cost down. He says he should be able to do so. Also, keep in mind the private shops I have been calling can't even look at the truck 2-3 weeks. It's a pickle and even if you go with Geno's whose part is backordered for two weeks, it's really a difference of how much from an independent shop vs dealer at this point. Truck also is in limp mode, plus more recourse at a dealer if something goes wrong. Might just go with the dealer on this one.

SweetLou wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Lou your money but I would not change out the turbo if actuator is bad.

Part of the problem is Geno's and City diesel are out of stock, so may be forced to get the turbo as well. Geno's says until 7/16 but what if I wait and they extend that as well? I can't get a mechanic so far to start work until 7/20 and I do need to truck. I'll wait for the dealer and the codes they found first

Too bad you are not on the West side of WA. My Mechanic friend recently installed the City Diesel actuator on a 13 and it was a piece of cake. He also had to wait and ordered directly from City. The truck was fine to drive around until the part arrived. My truck was fine to drive also, the EB was intermittent.

If it will help the codes I got were P00AF , P003A .Those should be the codes you will get if it’s an actuator . You can have one of the part places read your codes for you like Autozone .

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Lou your money but I would not change out the turbo if actuator is bad.

Part of the problem is Geno's and City diesel are out of stock, so may be forced to get the turbo as well. Geno's says until 7/16 but what if I wait and they extend that as well? I can't get a mechanic so far to start work until 7/20 and I do need to truck. I'll wait for the dealer and the codes they found first

SweetLou wrote:
Here's another question; if the actuator does not go out abruptly, can it reduce your MPG? I towed 2K coming from south to the north and noticed no performance change, plenty of power, but mpg much lower. Also, had intermittent clattering of the engine. Cold engine, no issues or sounds. Electrical issues I have with the truck will probably end up being the BCM once again but it had something to do with TH not being able to be engaged as well as the EB. They would come on 20 min or so down the road. No electrical communication to actuator could cause issue right?

Not a vvt expert here, but I’ll say yes it’s possible. Do you have a boost gauge and is/was boost the same as before?

So dealer diagnosed it definitively as the actuator it sounds like?
Still unclear if truck is in limp mode or what, but there are a lot of private diesel shops in the Spokane/CDA area, however I’m sorry, I don’t have a recommendation.

Good luck finding an actuator….I can’t even get a new hub for a bicycle wheel currently.

@sweetlou. Nother possibility, are you certain you don’t have rodent damage? Seems like an odd combo of different “electrical” issues that are seemingly unrelated.
Couple nights at the wrong campground in the mountains up there could have been a pack rat smorgasbord! Did you camp anywhere where folks left their hoods up on their vehicles when parked? That’s Montana lingo for pack rat central!

What I meant before was what are the trouble codes? That’s one of the first keys to diagnosis.

SweetLou wrote:
Here's another question; if the actuator does not go out abruptly, can it reduce your MPG? I towed 2K coming from south to the north and noticed no performance change, plenty of power, but mpg much lower. Also, had intermittent clattering of the engine. Cold engine, no issues or sounds. Electrical issues I have with the truck will probably end up being the BCM once again but it had something to do with TH not being able to be engaged as well as the EB. They would come on 20 min or so down the road. No electrical communication to actuator could cause issue right?

Besides the CEL , and codes , the truck was sluggish. I didn’t have the luxury of messing around with it , or know if anything else was not working right . All I know is the truck runs great again . Have towed my fifth wheel about 1000 miles now without any further issues.