That second picture showing the gap at the port side of the tailgate opening is what you want to shoot for.
I find lining everything up to start, then creeping back slowly, I can look through the rear window along the top of the bed and that gap is what I try to maintain, knowing the distance.
Stop to check every once in a while and it works pretty good. Dropping it down you can lean into the camper before it sets and make up small measurements if you want to move it a bit.
Bigfoot does a good job on the finish detail for sure.
TxGearhead--I have had the jacks off my 10.4. I had a little scuff on a rear corner so pulled it. I found the attaching screws they use were a might big for the holes in the braces, they were cutting threads into the braces and the braces were the limiting factor when the screws were threaded in, not pulling the braces tight against camper. So pulled all the jack braces and redrilled the holes bigger so the screws could pull the brace tight against the camper.
There is wood behind the fiberglass. On the front underneath there are three vertical screws, the rear most on mine had no backing as the wood didn't extend far enough back, likely a vertical piece not thick enough. On the rear the bottom screw on the brace had no backing, likely the wood didn't extend far enough down.
I like the results of reattachment. Pretty strong and solid. I did email Gary at Bigfoot and he understood what I was describing and was going to look into it.
Correction: On the underside of the front brackets there are four vertical fasteners, the inside rear did not have any backing, so there are three fasteners holding the bracket on the underside.
