Ok so I've been digging around on the forums for answers, and now it's time to get a consensus on what I have come up with... truck specs and weights09 2500HD Z71 CC LB 6.0 gasser285/65/18 toyo at2 (3640@80psi max)Dick Cepek 18x9 wheels (3640lbs max)Torklift frame mountsTorklift stable loadsFirestone airbagsSuper springs SSA15 (5000lbs)Weighted the truck with a full tank and me and the wife, here are the #'sfront axle 4040lbsrear axle 3080lbstotal 7120lbscamper specsadventurer 910fbs3284lbs dry (inc. options)4228lbs wet (inc. 50g water, 40lb pro., batteries & 300lbs misc)47" COGso I found a great little camper weight site http://www.visualsc.com/tc_calc.htmI put all the numbers into the calculator and here is what I get back..rear axle 7077lbsrear tire 3538lbsfront axle 4271lbsfront tire 2135lbsgvwr 11348lbsNow I do know that in this model when you add the water weight, it will move the COG forward.from all the searching I've done the only differences from a 2500 to a 3500 is the spring pack (extra overload leaf) and wheels and tires, 16" to 18".My question is am I wrong in figuring my rear axle is now 7280lbs (both wheels and tires are 3640lbs max X 2)? I know i'm way over on that the door tag shows for gvwr & gawr, but I assume those numbers are for a factory stock setup.

No modification can change the manufacturer's GVWRs on a vehicle. The sticker is what it is.

Car/truck manufacturers take into account breaking as well. All of that weight has to safely stop.It is what it is.Have you improved your braking?

MN Ben wrote:Car/truck manufacturers take into account breaking as well. All of that weight has to safely stop.It is what it is.Have you improved your braking?good point thanks.

You can do if you ignore the weight police. I have yet to see anyone post a spec that there is a difference in part numbers between calipers and rotors on a 2500 and 3500 or F250/350. Weakest link is going to be Wheels, tires and suspension. The door sticker is based on OEM components. no you can't change the door sticker but the sky isn't going to fall and the DOT isn't going to come after you (except in BC). I rode a rig like that for 5 years until I recently bought a Dually. My thoughts, you can do it, its a compromise, go way over on beefing up components. If you do it go with beefy anti sway bars, 19.5 wheels and commercial truck tires (You need to not be anywhere near the tire and wheel weight limits). beef up the spring packs. You are still going to wear stuff out faster and have a rougher ride than a dually for that kind of weight.

Keep in mind your figures for gvw of 11348 is just about what a stock 3500 dually is . A stock dually has over 10000 # of rear wheel and tire capacity , so it's not just about wheels and tires . It's your call .

2500HD and a 4000lb camper... | Good Sam Community

44 Replies

Reddog1
Explorer II
Aug 20, 2015
It is rare that I close a thread. This is probably the first time I have closed one due to so much blatant misinformation from couch engineers. I personally know more than one of the posters, and have no reason to believe what they have posted on this subject. While it is great to debate a subject, and offer suggestions, it is not great to argue with someone's belief system that has no personal experience.

If someone takes offense to my position and comments on this subject, so be it. This subject is closed, as will any thread started that wants to complain.

Wayne
Moderator
Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Aug 20, 2015
here is your axle specs the rear is mfg to 8600 pounds not the 6200 you were claiming. Axles are not going to be the weak link in the rating.

not saying I would want that set up, just like to see real numbers get used when claims are made.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/10.5%22_Corporate_14_Bolt_Differential
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Aug 20, 2015
I was in overload situation when I bought my Fleetwood.
Knowing that this might happen I bought the heaviest tires I could find for the truck.
Drove it home 2500 miles on overloaded tires and then at home, removed generator and one of the propane tanks, moved spare wheel on front bumper, so I could use the camper wet and I would not worry about axle bearings overload.
But what was always on back of my head, that with camper standing above 12 tall, the center of gravity high and lot of rear swing, simple flat would end in the ditch no matter how good driver I am.
lawrosa
Explorer
Aug 20, 2015
Buzzcut1 wrote:
Lawrosa
go to page 2 and read about the axles in Dweikerts post

I read them... and????

There is no facts on what the axles are rated at...

And even so he stated the rubbing isses on the tires if changed..

OK doing 70 mph tire rubs wheel well and blows out over a bump...

Kapowwwwwwwwwwww!!!!! Down the cliff you may go....

With COG how many times will it flip? Dont know...

To the OP... You feel safe and satisfied with your calculations go for it!!!!!! YAY!!!!!!!

Sheesh Im an axle guy and thats above the limits... wonder what the GVW guys will say....

:S:h
Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Aug 20, 2015
Lawrosa
go to page 2 and read about the axles in Dweikerts post
lawrosa
Explorer
Aug 20, 2015
Buzzcut1 wrote:
JIMNLIN wrote:
Unless the OP posts his axle ratings on the door tag all are guessing...

We have all other info, but need the axles...This is my third attempt to get the ratings...

The 2500 gm in his model year has a 6200 RAWR.

which would match most OEM 3200 pound rated E LT tires ( weakest link)

Yes if the OP does indeed have rear 6200 lb rear axle rating then that minus his scale weight gives payload 3120 lbs.

Thats 3120 lbs. folks..............

Do the math. Sheesh...

camper specs
adventurer 910fbs
3284lbs dry (inc. options)
4228lbs wet (inc. 50g water, 40lb pro., batteries & 300lbs misc)

Forget about it dude... Something will break... Putting yours, family or others in danger...

285/65/18 toyo at2 (3640@80psi max)
Dick Cepek 18x9 wheels (3640lbs max)
Torklift frame mounts
Torklift stable loads
Firestone airbags
Super springs SSA15 (5000lbs)

I dont care what you have ... you are over the axle rating period...

Whatever you add dont change your axles'

Is it 3640 per tire at 80 psi... weakest link are the axles.... Or do you mean per 2 tires???? Then tires weakest...

Now I do know that in this model when you add the water weight, it will move the COG forward.

And it will add more weight to the rear axle...

If your payload is 3140 thats the max TC wet you should buy...
Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Aug 20, 2015
JIMNLIN wrote:
Unless the OP posts his axle ratings on the door tag all are guessing...

We have all other info, but need the axles...This is my third attempt to get the ratings...

The 2500 gm in his model year has a 6200 RAWR.

which would match most OEM 3200 pound rated E LT tires ( weakest link)
JIMNLIN
Explorer III
Aug 20, 2015
Unless the OP posts his axle ratings on the door tag all are guessing...

We have all other info, but need the axles...This is my third attempt to get the ratings...

The 2500 gm in his model year has a 6200 RAWR.
jmcgsd
Explorer
Aug 20, 2015
I have carried TCs' on both single and drw trucks. I think it's safe to say that anyone who has ever switched from a single to a drw would never go back. Overloaded or not the stability of the drw is incredibly better IMHO.
lawrosa
Explorer
Aug 20, 2015
Unless the OP posts his axle ratings on the door tag all are guessing...

We have all other info, but need the axles...This is my third attempt to get the ratings...

Tires and axles carry the load,,,, I stated before as I drove tractor trailers and was subject to the DOT in the USA..

You can not go over your axle/ tire ratings... One of thos is the weakest link...

I fear the OP already has his set up and............ Its a mute point...

:B