6.O diesal Truck trade or fix

Get a Ford V-10 and have no worries except where the next gas station is! I have a 44 gallon tank, so it`s not as big a worry as a Super Duty. I`de rather spend a bit more in fuel than worrying when the engine will break down! an F350 with 4.30`s will tow just as good as a 6.uh-OH

As emission laws get tighter and tighter, engine swaps are starting to be frowned on. And in some states, you will not be able to license anything 96 or newer with a transplanted engine other than what came in the truck. Cleaner or not, they don't care. Check your local laws before destroking.

Tough question. The trade value of a F350 with or without the egr delete etc is next to nothing. Once they hear 6.0 the price drops like crazy. If you like the truck do the mods.

I went and looked at an 08 Dodge. Sticker price was 26,998. They were going to give me 6,500 for my 03. Once they added up all the numbers I was quoted 25,xxx difference. My engine was replaced at 75,000 kms for a none typical 6.0 issue. My truck had less than 4,000 kms more than the Dodge. 71,00 less kms on my engine.

I do all my own work which saves me a bundle. One my drive home from the dealer I had to wonder why I even considered it. Apples to apples not much difference

I guess I'd keep the truck do the stuff and carry on.

Only you can decide if you're going to re-invest in your vehicle or trade. However, if you consider trading, I would avoid just about all diesel vehicles from 2007-2010. These are the years in which they only had DPF systems and did not have the SCR (Urea) aftertreatment. The newest diesels (2011 and up for GM and Ford, 2013 and up for RAM) run far less EGR than those from 07-10' because of the SCR system. By running less EGR, you feed less soot back into the intake and your EGR valve is less prone to being clogged. Cummins actually had an EGR cleaning process at 75,000 miles for the 07-12 DPF-only ISB's.

Jeremiah,
If it is more than 15 degrees this indicates you may have a problem with the oil cooler or the EGR cooler. As I mentioned in number 6, I would have these items checked ASAP if the difference is more than 15 degrees. The higher the number, the more urgent the issue is.

vacuumbed wrote:

mccrawwf wrote:
Please give your thoughts, or the the best financial and safe move for the future. I have a 2005 Ford 3500HD 6.Ol Deisal truck that I pull a 34 ft. Jayco 5th. wheel. Iam aware of the problems with my truck and the more I read the sicker I get. At this point-98K miles-no problems. Based on 2 estimates Iam looking at 6K to 10K to fix the problems before they happen. What is best-trade or fix? If I trade Iam going to a Dodge Diesal. Iam 63 years old and hope to RV till around 75. My trips are limed to a couple of trips to SC a year.
Tks! Bill

Bill,
Spending 6K or more to fix problems that are not there in my opinion is a bad idea. If you keep it, I would spend less than $500. Here is what I would do if it was my truck.

1. Do your oil changes at every 5,000 miles with full synthetic 5W/40 oil. Your 6.0 injectors will love that oil. Use ONLY the Motorcraft oil filter.

2. Install a coolant filter. Cost is about $150 if you do it yourself. These aren't too hard to do.

3. Flush that Ford Gold coolant out of there and put in CAT ELC with distilled water.

4. Keep your fuel filter clean and only use Motorcraft filters. The same goes for the air filter.

5. Do not use any aftermarket tuners on your truck.

6. Get a scanguage and monitor the oil and coolant temps. They need to be within 15 degrees of each other. If it is more have the EGR cooler and the oil cooler checked. Cost is about $170 for the scanguage.

Enjoy your truck! No need to spend thousands on something that isn't broke.

This is a great list. I haven't seen this compiled together like this. I have heard of part of it like the coolant filter. I do have a question. What do you do if the Oil and the Coolant temps spread by more than 15 degrees?

Thanks!

Jeremiah

mccrawwf wrote:
Please give your thoughts, or the the best financial and safe move for the future. I have a 2005 Ford 3500HD 6.Ol Deisal truck that I pull a 34 ft. Jayco 5th. wheel. Iam aware of the problems with my truck and the more I read the sicker I get. At this point-98K miles-no problems. Based on 2 estimates Iam looking at 6K to 10K to fix the problems before they happen. What is best-trade or fix? If I trade Iam going to a Dodge Diesal. Iam 63 years old and hope to RV till around 75. My trips are limed to a couple of trips to SC a year.
Tks! Bill

Bill,
Spending 6K or more to fix problems that are not there in my opinion is a bad idea. If you keep it, I would spend less than $500. Here is what I would do if it was my truck.

1. Do your oil changes at every 5,000 miles with full synthetic 5W/40 oil. Your 6.0 injectors will love that oil. Use ONLY the Motorcraft oil filter.

2. Install a coolant filter. Cost is about $150 if you do it yourself. These aren't too hard to do.

3. Flush that Ford Gold coolant out of there and put in CAT ELC with distilled water.

4. Keep your fuel filter clean and only use Motorcraft filters. The same goes for the air filter.

5. Do not use any aftermarket tuners on your truck.

6. Get a scanguage and monitor the oil and coolant temps. They need to be within 15 degrees of each other. If it is more have the EGR cooler and the oil cooler checked. Cost is about $170 for the scanguage.

Enjoy your truck! No need to spend thousands on something that isn't broke.

I'll throw my two cents in. I traded my 2006 6.0 two weeks ago on a 2008 GMC 3500 DRW. Over the last year I have spent well over $6000 "Bullet Proofing" the engine and still left me stranded twice with other issues. Luckily I run a Scan Gauge II and caught the overheating EGR before any damage was done but it ruined a vacation.
I had been looking for a dually for awhile and found the GMC in Georgia for a $4000 under book with impecibleo maintenance records. When the dealer saw my F350 he said he had a customer for my truck and offered me $19000 for it. Well if dealer is offering me that much for a 6.0 I figured it was meant to be.
Let me tell you, the difference in performance from the F350 to the 3500 is night and day. I have yet to pull my fiver but bobtail its like driving a sports car compared to the F350. The 3500 rides smoother, is 100% quieter, more low end torque, and is more comfortable than the King Ranch and the wife likes it better.
Yes, I liked my F350 but was nervous driving it, afraid of what would happen next. We plan on camping further and this was not a feeling I needed each time we headed out.
Good luck on your decision. I know I made the right on for us. We plan on keeping this truck for a long time and feel more confident that it will.

X2 on the Cummins-either do a engine swap or spring for a new ram-it will cost some $ but you will have a truck that will not leave you stranded and ruin a trip-whsk

Hi I have a F250 6.0 with 90000 miles on it. At 70000 I did the minor bullet proofing. Same as you I never had a problem was just concerned. Since that time the 20000 have been heavy haulin all and over
the mountains at least four times, we live out west. I love my truck it is in great shape and it runs great.
Look for a diesel specialist in your area and go see him and ask his advice. I have heard that if the engine hasn't gone bad by a certain mileage it should be good to go. I do all other maintenance myself. Compare what someone will give you for your truck then what a new one will cost. Like others have said Most people will low ball you on the truck because its a 6.0. Peace of mind may not be cheap but new does not always mean better. Good luck in whatever you decide.